Photo by J. Vranjes
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Nearest major airport:||Innsbruck, Zurich|
|Convenient Center:||Bormio, Sulden|
Thanks to J. Vranjes for adding this peak.
Ortler (3905 m) is a huge massive to the east from the Stelvio Pass, and between the Trafoi vallei in the north-west and Sulden valley in the north-east. The normal route starts at the village Trafoi, from the north-west side. To this point one arrives over the Stelvio Pass (2760 m), or from Austria from the north, in both cases through landscapes of exceptional beuaty. From Trafoi one should follow the direction towards the Payer hut (3029 m). There are two routes from Trafoi, the one from the north-west and the other from the south-west direction (passing the Bergl hut at 2188 m), that merge at the Edelweis hut (2481 m). A variant of the route by the Bergl hut is the Meraner route above the hut, which goes over the ridge towards Pleisshorn and towards Upper Ortler glacier. It joins the normal route far above the Payer hut. It is a via ferrata with fixed cables and ropes and ladders at several places.
The Payer hut can be reached from the Sulden valley too, by first following the route towards Tabaretta hut (2556 m). The route above the Payer hut implies a steep rock and ferrata with fixed chains and cables, passing the bivacco Ortles at 3318 m, which is then followed by a long glacier walk with crevasses to the summit.
Accommodation: camp at Trafoi, hotels and huts at the Stelvio Pass, Bergl hut, Payer hut, Tabaretta hut.
Map: Ortleralpen Freitag&Berndt, 1:50000
Thanks to J. Vranjes for this description.