Photo by Adam Sale
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jan, Feb, Dec|
|First successful climber(s):||Edward Whimper|
|Nearest major airport:||Quito|
Thanks to Charlie Shyab for adding this peak.
This peak lies on private property, so it could be a problem to access. Usually you can contact the hacienda for permission. It is the fourth highest peak in Equador. It seldomly sees climbers so there is no route to follow. There is also no climbers hut and needs to be accessed with a 4WD vehicle. Camp can be made at about 14,500ft below what seems to be the best route that season. The glaciers change quite a bit from year to year, so there are several routes from which to choose from. The climb is steep and there are many hidden crevasses. At about 18,000ft there is about 100ft of 65 degree climbing and then a traverse to the left which requires a fixed line and then leads up to the summit plateau. It is a hard climb, but so incredibly beautiful, but the best part is to have the entire mountain to yourself and not see another soul for days.
Thanks to Charlie Shyab for this description.