Deltaform

Gwain Oka and I made the second ascent of the Super Coulior over two rainy days in August of '76. Geogre Lowe and Chris Jones made the first a couple years ealier, Jerry Rogan and Jim Elzinga added a direct finish above the initial gully the previous summer, in storm. By the time the rain started it was safer we thought to go up instead of down.. foolish children. The summit cornice came off as I was leading just below the hourglass in the upper gulley which is the only reason I am here writing this. We spent a wet and uncomfortable night on a snow ledge below the crux, the final 2 pitches straight up the gully. Gwain lead both pitches in water fall conditions early the next morning. We pounded our entire rock rack into some forgotten gully getting down the back side in storm and slept another night in a meadow and then a lloooonnnngg walk out Marble Canyon in heavy boots and wool knickers. In bad conditions, a very unsafe place. In good conditions a superb and classic ice climb. I never went back for an encore.