Normal route from Moskvina Base Camp - 4300 m
- Added By: Edoardo Martelli
- Date added: Jan 08, 2011
- Distance (km): 9.537
The Normal Route to Pik Korjenevskaya starts from Moskvina Base Camp, placed between Moskvina Glacier and Valter Glacier at the south face of the mountain at an altitude of around 4300 m and goes up along the Southern edge of Korjenevskaya Glacier.
The route starts from the Moskvina Camp in north direction, crossing immediatly the Moskvina glacier (45 min). Crampons are not necessary for this first part of the route because there is a massive presence of stones on the ice.
At the other side of the glacier the route turn on the left (west) and begin a steep ascending on rocky ground up to a first hill at 4600 m, then you have to descend a little bit (arond 100 m), and start again to go up on a very steep track up to a second hill at 4800 m.
At the top of the hill the route turns on the right (again north) mantaining the same altitude for a long crossing on the face of the mountain. Along this part of the route you can help yourself with two or three fixed ropes placed on the more difficult steps.
When you arrive in proximity of the front of the glacier that falls down from Korzhenevskaya you have to cross the valley just under the dangerous serac (pay attention to stones falling down from the top of the serac).
On the other side of the valley the route turns on the right (north) and starts again to go up on a stony ground close to the glacier.
At 4900 m you have to turn on the left and climb a steep rocky step with helping yourself with another long fixed rope. At the end of the rope the route turns again on the right, crosses some small valleys where sometimes there is snow, and reaches a small widening where you can place the first camp - 5100 m. (Base Camp - Camp 1: 4 - 6 h)
From the frist camp the route continues in north direction untill it jump on the glacier (you have to dress your crampons) and reaches a second widening where it is possible to place an advanced first camp - 5300 m. From here the route continues to go up on the ice with some turns mainly in west direction avoiding big seracs.
When you reach a flat icy area you have to turn a little on the right untill you arrive at the base a steep step (45° - 50°) where generally you can find a fixed rope that help you to cross the final crevasse and to climb the icy slope.
At the end of the rope the trace turn on the right (east), and reaches the camp 2 at 5800 m on the ridge of the glacier just under the vertical rocky wall that sustains the high part of the mountain. (Camp 1 - Camp 2: 3 - 5 h)
From camp to the route continue to cross the steep icy slope in east direction following the rocky wall until it reaches a snowy hill directly on the ridge - 6100 m.
From this point it turns on the right and follows the long final ridge (north, north-west) on which it is possible to place the camp 3 at around 6400 m. To reach camp 3 you have to climb a vertical rocky step of 40 m helping yourself with a fixed rope. (Camp 2 - Camp 3: 3 - 5 h)
From camp 3 to summit, the route follows the snowy ridge with slope between 20° and 40°. (Camp 3 - Summit: 4 - 7 h).
The descent is on the same way. (Summit day + 1 day).