Mount Spickard

Elevation (feet): 8,979
Elevation (meters): 2,737
Continent: North America
Country: United States
Range/Region: Cascade Range
State: Washington
Latitude: 48.969682
Longitude: -121.240482
Difficulty: Technical Climb
Best months for climbing: Jul, Aug
Year first climbed: 1904
First successful climber(s): Walter Raeburn
Nearest major airport: Seattle-Tacoma
Convenient Center: Marblemount

Thanks to theyogiclimber for adding this peak.

Mount Spickard is located in the Chilliwack Group in the remote northern section of North Cascades National Park, and is situated approximately two miles south of the US-Canada international border. Mount Spickard is the 5th highest and northernmost titan in North Cascades National Park. Spickard ranks as the 16th highest peak in Washington state while also boasting 4779 feet of prominence. Spickard supports a cirque glacier called the Silver Glacier on its north aspect, and Spickard is in an area of intense glaciation which spans to Mount Redoubt three miles to the west. Spickard is situated west of Ross Lake, south of Silver Lake, and north of Mox Peaks. Approaches are long and difficult, but the easiest approach is from the Canadian side of the international border via Chilliwack Lake and Depot Creek. The approach from Silver Creek on the north or Perry Creek from the south will involve access via water taxi on Ross Lake. Take an ice axe and crampons for this two or three day ascent of Spickard.

The mountain was originally named "Glacier Peak," but was renamed in 1964 in honor of climber and physician Dr. Warren Spickard who fell 800 feet to his death during descent of nearby NW Mox Peak on August 20, 1961. Warren Spickard had climbed "Glacier Peak" in 1955 with party. Dr. Warren Spickard was a member of the Mountain Rescue Council and was one of the first to publish research on high altitude pulmonary edema.

Refer to Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 3, for complete approach and route descriptions on Mount Spickard.

Thanks to theyogiclimber for this description.