Huascaran

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Elevation (feet): 22,204
Elevation (meters): 6,768
Continent: South America
Country: Peru
Range/Region: Peruvian Andes
Latitude: -9.121504
Longitude: -77.604246
Difficulty: Basic Snow/Ice Climb
Best months for climbing: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Year first climbed: 1932
First successful climber(s): H. Bernard, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, E. Schneider
Nearest major airport: Lima, Peru
Convenient Center: Huaraz, Peru

Huascarán is the highest mountain in Peru, and the fifth highest in South America. The continent's four higher mountains are all located further south along the Chile-Argentina crest, so Huascarán towers dominantly among its peers. Its two extinct volcanic summits (the lower north peak is 21,830 ft.) are separated by a huge deep saddle, upon which a hut now sits. The mountain is both high and massive, its huge flanks covered in steep, broken glaciers. In 1962 a hanging glacier broke from the mountain's northern flank, killing 6,000 people in the village of Ranrahirca. In 1970, a similar fate fell upon the villages of Yungay, Huaraz, and Aija, which were wiped out by earthquake-triggered avalanches from the mountain. Fifteen members of a Czech expedition were climbing Huascarán at the time, and were among the thousands dead. Many climbers have also been killed by icefall in the area between the two peaks. Technically, Huascarán is actually one of the easiest climbs in the Cordillera Blanca, though its ever-present hazards -- icefall, avalanche, and crevasse -- must not be overlooked. Huascarán's lower north summit was first climbed in 1908 by Annie Peck, making it one of the few major peaks in the world to be first ascended by a woman. The higher south peak remained unclimbed for 24 years after Peck's south peak ascent. Both peaks are climbed via the saddle that separates them, and the panorama from the top is unequaled. The lower north peak is less crowded, and is a slightly more difficult climb.

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

There are 37 trip reports for Huascaran.

Select any entry from the list below:

  • Log #21410 - by hans marien on Sep 02, 2008
    After acclimatisation on other peaks we climbed Huascaran Sur via 'The Shield'. Passing the bergshrund was difficult since a lot of crevasses had to be negotiated (we couldn't check the route the day...
  • Log #20526 - by Arndt W Brettschneider on Dec 06, 2006
    Being the first group of climbers to summit the North Peak after persistent bad weather we encountered significant amounts of deep snow making progress very difficult. Garganta was in O.K condition...
  • Log #19916 - by Bastiaan Hendrikse on Sep 27, 2006
    On 09.14 AM on Monday the 30th of July Michel van den Munckhof, our guide Alexandro and me reached the summitt via the normal route. Bitterly cold, very windy but clear blue skies. The Garganta...
  • Log #2994 - by Mike Kendon and Lizzie Kennett on June 11, 2004
    Climbed by the normal route via Garganta. The short (20ft) vertical ice wall on the way to the col was quite tiring to lead because of the thin air. There were some fairly nasty crevasses above the...
  • Log #2995 - by Steven Reiser on Mar 01, 2004
    The most important aspect of any climb is the skill and personalities you are climbing with and especially how each deal with the stresses of climbing at high altitude. Physical strength, endurance,...
  • Log #2996 - by andre de jonge on Oct 30, 2003
    great waether to much snow no summit! I came till 5700m
  • Log #2997 - by Patrick Baumann on July 21, 2003
    The weather in the Blancas has been great for the last few days. Summit rates on Huascaran have been high and the main reason for failure is improper acclimatization. Starting in Musho, the trail...
  • Log #2998 - by roy maiberger on July 20, 2003
    the huascaran was my first big mountain . with very little experieance ,it is a very tecnecly easy climb ,but the hight are not too be taken lightly . on tht same year (2002) i know about two...
  • Log #2999 - by marek wencel on Sep 25, 2002
    summiters maximo henostrosa ,gregory moo ,marek wencel the weather was just fantastic,snow conditions very good.i still do not underestand why climbers are not visiting in may.on the way down we...
  • Log #3000 - by Edwin Lautner on Aug 20, 2002
    Together with: Franz Bucher, Bruno Buzzi, Peter Schwarhofer, Helmut Starchel, Ber Zedrosser, Franz Ziegerhofer and peruvian friends Maximo, Creo and Gusto.
  • Log #3001 - by Eike H. Mrosek on Feb 28, 2002
    Extremely windy and cold. bad weather conditions. the garganta icefall was in very critical condition. 1 fatal accident a week before, and also two polytrauma-patients in the very same ice-avalanche.
  • Log #3002 - by Manuel Calderon on Feb 11, 2002
    My way back from base camp2 to base camp1 from Huascaran we have an accident, avalanche olmost kill us, if we 4 of us didnt do what we did, we were kill, our guide look the avalanche, he left the...
  • Log #3003 - by Jon Zigmond on Dec 10, 2001
    Due to white out, and getting lost on descent, summit day was a bit of an epic. We spent no more than 10 seconds on the summit and getting lost on descent to the col was a potentially serious...
  • Log #3004 - by Ian de Bruyn on Sep 04, 2001
    Good Acclimatization on Pisco Oeste beforehand. Snow conditions on Huascaran very good. Climbed the regular route, up the west face to the Gargantua Col and then southeast up the south summit. A...
  • Log #3005 - by Michal Dzmuran on Aug 25, 2001
    The standard Garganta Route was not very well accessible due to avalanches a crevases. So, we went another variant. It was not so easy to find it, because it is not normally used. We had to return...
  • Log #3006 - by Michel van den Munckhof on Aug 14, 2001
    On 09.14 AM on Monday the 30th of July me and my friend Bastiaan reached the summitt via the normal route. Bitterly cold, very windy but clear blue skies. The Garganta seemed to be in good condition...
  • Log #3007 - by Nicolas Waelchli on Aug 06, 2001
    31 juillet : Musho (3030m) - camp de base (4230m). 1er aout : camp de base (4230m) - camp 1 (5323m). 2 aout : camp 1 (5323m) - camp 2 (5885m). Il vaut mieux camper sous la Garganta, dans la crevasse.
  • Log #3008 - by Fredrik Sträng on July 13, 2001
    We climbed direct frances route. Great! We traversed on the summit ridge, lots of snow, very steep on both sides, but we took it easy. It snowed on the top. The climb was great.
  • Log #3009 - by Keith Ladd Moses on Apr 30, 2001
    The Expedition Company I am using for a July summit attempt on Huascaran looks as if it is not going to run because of some members dropping out. I am looking for a partner, and some info on...
  • Log #3012 - by Roland Haas on Nov 05, 2000
    Due to high avalanche-danger we were forced to turn back from the Gargantaon Aug 7. Would be very interesting to know, how long this situation was going on and when and who was the first one after...
  • Log #3013 - by Aaron Barnes on Oct 09, 2000
    The route has been changing rapidly over the last few years. We encountered a 60 vertical wall just below the Garganta and after the big avalanche a few years ago the route finding has been a little...
  • Log #3014 - by Arnis Opmanis on Sep 09, 2000
    We are planning to climb up to this summit at the beggining of november this year. I know that is not good season for climbing in this region. May be someone is summited this peak in this season and...
  • Log #3015 - by brett eagle on July 25, 2000
    standard garganta route
  • Log #3016 - by Brian Cabe on June 13, 2000
    Standard Route to La Garganta.
  • Log #3017 - by seth on Mar 06, 2000
    Looking for partners and heard about this place, I'm going to Peru for the last 3 weeks of June and all of July. I would love to climb this mountain and whatever else ends up sounding cool. If you...
  • Log #3018 - by riley on Feb 01, 2000
    Looking for more info that is current. I will c;imb this peak in may/june...pico as a warm up and then a route on Huascaren. I am solo and would be interested in a partner for a more technical ice...
  • Log #3019 - by steve graepel on Jan 10, 2000
    Scott Classen and I schlepped our packs from Musho to the moraine camp in an easy days trek (early route finding through the eucalyptus grove can be difficult due to the abundance of trails). Day two...
  • Log #3020 - by Francois Nicodeme on Aug 05, 1999
    Alll the menbers of the "Terre d'aventure" group (12 people) went on the summit this day thanks to the French guide Philippe Grenier and one Peruvian guide from Huaraz. We were lucky not to have any...
  • Log #3021 - by Jim Sheehan on July 31, 1999
    My friend, Brendan, went missing on this peak on 27 July,1999. I would be glad to hear from anybody who knows anything about his last movements.
  • Log #3022 - by Philippe Boursier et Lucie Rochon on July 29, 1999
    Avec notre guide peruvien Maximo , nous etions les trois seuls a avoir atteint le sommet ce jour la . Le ciel etait sans nuage le vent etait presque nul. Depart a 3h30 le matin arrivee au sommet a...
  • Log #3023 - by greg hull on July 13, 1999
    I will be attending a 13-day mountaineering school (Alpine Ascents International) in SEP99. I would like to do a serious (within my capabilities) climb after that. For those of you who have climbed...
  • Log #3024 - by Howard Petrie on June 29, 1999
    There was an avalanche the day we arrived in Peru that wiped out the traditional camp 2 in the col for the Garganta route between the Sur and Norte peaks. This killed 3 climbers. One of the deceased...
  • Log #3025 - by Isabelle MEYER on May 25, 1999
    J'ai eu le privilege de gravir ce sommet avec le guide francais Bruno Douillet et le guide peruvien Augusto Ortega qui devint quelques mois plus tard le premier Peruvien au sommet de l'Everest....
  • Log #3026 - by Dominic Winchester on May 18, 1999
    The most amazing experience, yet one of the hardest things (mentally and physically) I have ever done. My thanks to the guides and porters who helped me to make it to the top. Three people died the...
  • Log #3027 - by Stephane Mandelert on Feb 11, 1999
    Should not be taken lightly, contrarily to what is written in some guides. There is an ice wall at around 6100 m of more than 80 metres who had just killed a fellow swiss just before we passed.
  • Log #3028 - by Gil Piekarz on Jan 05, 1999
    Due the avalanche in 1997 the normal route change becoming more dangerous. In july 1998 I tried fly by paraglider from the summit at 6.768m. I summited at 06:40 hs but due the strong wind (more than...
  • Log #3029 - by Ben Gorman on Dec 14, 1998
    I'm looking for partners for an extended climbing trip to the Cordillera Blanca in May &June, 1999. Possible climbs include Kitiraju, Alpamayo, Huascaran, and Santa Cruz. Anyone interested, write...