Huayna Potosi

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Huayna Potosi Trip Report (#3058)

  • Signed By: John Krotec
  • Date submitted: October 01, 2003

I wish to reply to the comments made by Karl Pruckner concerning Gonzalo Jaimes. First, experienced alpine mountain climbers usually are aware of the equipment conditions in developing nations. I have climbed in several developing countries and I must say that even the best local mountain guides have substandard equipment. I would never travel half way around the world to climb in a third world country and expect to find primo equipment. The equipment that he uses is certainly substandard by my criteria. I would suggest to any serious mountaineer (who probably already know this)to spend the money before you travel and buy the best gear you can. Secondly, I have climbed with Gonzalo Jaimes on three occasions. He and his guides have always shown the utmost in professionalism and knowlege of the peaks that we have climbed. In fact, on one summit attempt he orderd our group back because the conditions were too dangerous. Lastly, the deaths that Pruckner describes were not members of Gonzalo's climbing teams. They were on another guided team. Gonzalo, because of his expertise and reputation, was called upon to help find the misguided climbers. Gonzalo was in no way responsible for the deaths of those Americans. Last, I must add that one needs to be careful when putting out misinformation. Unless you have the facts straight it is unwise to make a comment. Gonzalo has a nice family and their welfare depends on his livlihood. He loves to climb and is always concerned with the safety and welfare of his clients.

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