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Pik Lenin, originally called Mount Kaufmann, is the second highest mountain of the Pamirs, and second highest in the former Soviet Union. Its north face sweeps magnificently above the Alay Valley, though its southern slopes are rounded and unimpressive, with an easy gradual slope. Lenin was the first 7,000 meter peak to be discovered in the Soviet Union, and was thought to be the highest until Communism Peak (24,590 ft.), its neighbor sixty miles southwest, was climbed in 1933, at which point its true status was discovered. Pik Lenin is located on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, and is an extremely popular climbing peak. It is easily accessible, easily climbed, and the weather is commonly cooperative. Because of this, it is one of the most-climbed 7,000-meter peaks in the world. Pik Lenin, however, has a recent history of disasters, as in 1974 all eight members of a team of female climbers were killed in a storm high on the mountain; and in 1990 an earthquake-triggered avalanche killed forty-three climbers.
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug|
|Year first climbed:||1928|
|First successful climber(s):||Karl Wien, Eugene Allwein, Erwin Schneider, (German team)|
|Nearest major airport:||Tashkent, Uzbekistan, Dushanbe, Tajikistan|
|Convenient Center:||Osh, Kyrgyzstan, Dzhirgatal, Tajikistan|
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 36 trip reports for Pik Lenin.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #22350 - by Johan on Oct 17, 2012Standard climb via the western ridge and Razdelnaja. Mostly lovely weather except on the summit day. Very strong winds on the ridge throughout the climb period.
- Log #21979 - by hiromanabee on May 13, 2010Technically very easy, but very hot above 7000m, if it is good weather.
- Log #20580 - by Markus Walter on Jan 07, 2007Having summited Lenin Peak meanwhile four times in always good weather and route conditions I can highly recommend this as a first 7000m+ experience for well-trained and experienced climbers. Since...
- Log #20399 - by Kristian Mody on Sep 27, 2006This text is in danish/skandinavian Begyndelsen Som ansvarlig for arrangementer i De Berejstes Klub, havde jeg i månedsvis nøjsomt planlagt et angreb på klubbens højderekord. Ydermere havde...
- Log #4372 - by Robert Rozmus on Oct 13, 2004We made the top 3 times. If You like to join our expedition look on: www.annapurna.pl
- Log #4373 - by Pawel on Oct 12, 2004Very good weather conditions in half of august. From 3 camp to the top in 9h, 4,5h down.
- Log #4375 - by Pawel on Oct 12, 2004Very good weather conditions in half of september. From 3 camp to the top in 9h, 4,5h down.
- Log #4376 - by De Boeck Johan on Aug 18, 20049 of the 17 members of our Belgian expedition team reached the summit. We had good weather, but a strong cold wind. We made a camp 4 at 6400m. It was a good thing, otherwise it was a very long climb...
- Log #4377 - by Uwe Kraus on Dec 31, 2003A new experience to climb over 7000 m. Good conditions but a long climb. Read more on my web site.
- Log #4378 - by
PJG on Sep 29, 2003Very lucky with weather. Still had much difficulty with glacier and illness.
- Log #4379 - by Jo Heersink on Sep 10, 2003It is said by some that this is an ideal peak for starters on high altitude, but I know better ones. Peak Lenin is in many respects a tricky bastard and has build a name as a killer mountain, (during...
- Log #4380 - by Juan Ramon Morales on Sep 04, 2003The way up to camp 2 was a series of wide crevasses, some hidden by snow and with fragile snow bridges. FRom there to the summit is clearer. Very high winds on the ridge and people installinf camp 3...
- Log #4381 - by Thomas Lucyshyn on Aug 30, 2003Supported by perfect weather (except for the cold wind in the morning) we reached the top at about 13:30 (Bergspechte-expedition with our expedition leader Armin, Werner, Dietmar, Ernst, Hermann and...
- Log #4382 - by José Manuel Renuncio on June 11, 2003We are upon to go to Kyrgyzstan to try pik Lenin. we'll go to Tashkent and by bus to the base camp via Osh. Do you have any updated information about safety and security in both countries (Uzbekistan...
- Log #4383 - by Monika Sternfeld on Nov 04, 2002Was cold, though beautiful morning with clouds thickening in the afternoon. Reached to 6800m by Razdelnaja route. From our group of 7 one summited on this day. Definitely worth the try! But have to...
- Log #4384 - by tomas olsson on Oct 12, 2002Cold on the summit, skied from summit via Radelnaia route.
- Log #4385 - by
Boris Krielen on Sep 19, 2002After a night without sleep in a very small icecave in camp 3 with a temperature of minus 30 degrees, I tried to summit solo. Bad weather, half frozen feet, lack of acclimitisation cause my climbing...
- Log #4386 - by Claudia Mueller on Aug 28, 2002Yeah yeah yeah Johan and me we've got it!!! After staying 10 days in camp 2 because of bad weather we got a wonderful summit hour. Make it on your own and I wish you good luck.
- Log #4387 - by Zoran Bogdanovic on Jan 06, 2002Member of Belgrade Alpine Club expedition, Zoran Bogdanovic - expedition leader and Limbers Hudeludis summated peek via Razdelnu ridge. First YU assent.
- Log #4388 - by Tom Beek on Sep 14, 2001We started from camp 3 at 6.30 with 3 dutchman. Due to the cold conditions 2 of my fellow climbers had to give up. I reached the top at 15.
- Log #4389 - by Johan Ockerman on Sep 05, 2001"Claudia and I were the last ones on the peak this season. It was a day with perfect conditions, unlike the week before and the days that followed. We did the peak on an individual basis and,...
- Log #4390 - by Peter Kollar on Sep 04, 2001I reached the top via the north face with 4 fiends and ski down on telemark ski through the north face to C1 in 4200 m. Pretty hard to ski in seven thousand. If somebody wnat try it, take care on...
- Log #4391 - by Lucafo on Sep 01, 2001We are the official website of Lenin 2001. Catalonia Expedition. We invite everyone to visit our website and send us an email for telling us their point of view. Regards
- Log #4392 - by Hannes on Aug 23, 2001Hi to all mountaineering freaks. My first seven thousander, great peak to start with. Ascent lasted for 7,5 hours for me. Myself and my climbing mates were bit tired from previous day's...
- Log #4393 - by Emilio Previtali on Aug 16, 2001I have summited and snowboarded the north face from the summit at 7134m to camp 1 at 4200 m in about 1 hour. The snow was icy on the top and super powder on the face. Cool! You should do it...
- Log #4394 - by Norbert on Apr 28, 2001I and my friend from Poland want go to East Peaks to Pik Lenin. PL is easy top of World. Please contact to me. I was in Karpatian Mountains, Alps and Kaukaz (Elbrus).
- Log #4396 - by Valdek Udris on Dec 26, 2000Purpose of estonian expedition was descent on skis and snowboards from summit via North Face to Camp1. Totally summited 6 estonians (via classical route). Because the other skiers and snowboarders...
- Log #4397 - by Robert Lindner on Nov 15, 2000We stopped short of the summit at approx 7020-7050m, due to problems my partner was experiencing. Me and another friend had skies, which we used from top or shortly below Pik Razdelnaya (6145m) down...
- Log #4399 - by marinko on Oct 10, 2000Please, all who give me more information about ascent in Pik Lenin, and all maps,site,weather, money..... I want to go there 2002. Thank you
- Log #4400 - by gerhard messmer on Sep 07, 2000i summited peak lenin on 18.08.1999 together with two guys from slowenia. now i have a big request to them: they did some fotos from me on the summit. it would be great if they can send me these.
- Log #4401 - by SINAN HALIC on Mar 29, 2000I want to climb this summit if possible.....ones who want to climb from all over the world can mail me.....maybe we can organize an ascent together... bye
- Log #4403 - by
Trey Cook on Mar 28, 2000Has anybody ever skied or snowboarded from the summit of this peak? Any and all info on climbing would be greatly appreciated. Happy climbing. -Trey
- Log #4404 - by pawel on Mar 16, 2000I look for more informations about expeditions to Peak Lenin,becouse I am going to go there.If you can send me its I will be happy.(my English is poor, I am sorry.
- Log #4405 - by Mehdi jabbeh dar on Feb 27, 2000I would like to klibing the pik samani or kommunizma. please send me your information. Thank's for your help.
- Log #4406 - by Serg Komarov on June 07, 1999There are no any technical difficulties. It is the best big mount to begin ascensions on peaks >7000m. Have a good acclimatization and wait a weather...
- Log #4407 - by peter wiesinger on May 10, 1999take care of heavy winds and keep away from the Russian way of acclimatisation (in 98 some summited the fourth day of their expedition)