Iliniza Sur is one of the most beautiful mountains in Ecuador, and is the higher of the two peaks of Iliniza volcano, located just south of Quito.
(from Xavier Vela:)
To climb Iliniza Sur, approach by car from Machachi to Chaupi and finally "La Virgen", the place where you start walking. From "La Virgen" to "Nuevos Horizontes" hut takes about three hours walking. The hut is on the "ensillada" between Iliniza Norte and Iliniza Sur peaks. There are different ways up to the Iliniza Sur summit, all requiring technical rock/ice climbing. The normal route is the easiest one, 30 to 65 degrees ice (depends of the weather and the month of the year). You may need about four hours to the summit.
(from Robin Shackell:)
Iliniza Sur's condition has deteriorated significantly in the last 3-4 years. It now ejects stones and boulders from the melting glacier above, making both the last section of approach and the climb itself a dangerous proposition.
For those attempting it, go in the middle of the night and be off by first light. It should only take 4-5 hours on grade IV- ground. Start point is from the hut at Iliniza. I'd walk round in day light to get a good look at the route.
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug|
|Most recent eruption:||Before records began|
|Year first climbed:||1880|
|First successful climber(s):||Jean Antoine, Louis Carrel (Italy) during Whymper's visit to Ecuador|
|Nearest major airport:||Quito|
Thanks to Robin Shackell for adding this peak.
There are 7 trip reports for Iliniza Sur.
- Log #16089 - by Ben Boykin on Jan 12, 2004Kevin Siebke & I climbed La Rampa or a variation thereof, to El Hongo, and descended the Ruta Normal.
- Log #16090 - by Bretton Adams on Mar 05, 2002Climbed Illiniza Sur via the North Face Direct Route. Virtually no snow on the glacier, all ice. This made for great protection but more difficulty on the moderate terrain. Finished with a tough rock...
- Log #16091 - by Jean-Francois Lapierre on Jan 23, 2002Iliniza sur is perfect. Not so high. Not so technical.Not so long walk.
- Log #16092 - by Jon Zigmond on Dec 10, 2001Not difficult - not really technical. I left the refuge at 3.00am and summitted in the cold and dark at 5.30am. (After 10 minutes on the summit I was back at the refuge for 6.
- Log #21425 - by Igor Cazes on Sep 09, 2008Illiniza Sur was my first big peak in Ecuador.I summited with my friend Alexandre and mountain guide Osvaldo in a windy and total whiteout morning. It took us 4hours from the hut at 4700m.#hs from...
- Log #21834 - by Crix on Nov 28, 2009Great climb, with an awesome view of Illinizas, Cotopaxi, and the valleys. A most do when you go climbing in Ecuador, not that difficult. Only a lot of wind...
- Log #21905 - by Christian Rodriguez on Feb 18, 201015 climbers begun to climb this mountains, was a difficult and technical climb so just 5 succesfully got the summit. Awesome climb!!