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Aneto Trip Report (#8348)

  • Signed By: Alex
  • Date submitted: September 24, 2003
  • Date(s) climbed: 18 September 2003

First attempt on 28 August 03 failed due to mistaken Portillon Superior for Portillon Inferior. Ended up in a difficult position on the ridge and had to abort. This time I started at La Besurta at 6:30 after a taxi lift from Benasque. At 50 euros, I found it quite steep, even steeper than my climb! Extremely lucky with the weather, didn't need the torch as the moon and stars gave loads of light. On the west face of Portillon ridge found loads of patches of fresh snow which slowed me down. Thin layer of snow covered the glacier as well. Snow stopped few meters before Paso de Mahoma. Paso de Mahoma wasn't difficult at all maybe harder when it isn't dry. Don't let it intimidate you and go for it! There is only one portion of less than 2 meters slightly exposed, but again it is a horizontal flat slab of rock of considerable width, almost 1 meter!!! The way back takes a long time as well, mainly because of the boulders you have to cross between the glacier and Portillon Superior. Stay on the left side of the boulders (west) as it is easy to miss Portillon Superior. Also, I tried the direct route down from Portillon Superior hoping it would take less than the ridge to Portillon Inferior and then down. Well, I don't think you save any time going straight down, specially if there are patches of slippery snow!

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