The Triad is an appropriate name for a craggy peak with three distinct summits of which the Middle Peak is the highest at an estimated height of 7750 feet. The Triad is located within and along the west boundary of beautiful North Cascades National Park, and is less than 2 miles southwest of Eldorado Peak. Even though rated as a scramble, the route also demands ice axe and crampons for a short but exposed section of steep ice on the approach from the west. Rope is also nice to have for a rappel down a steep gully, rather than have to down climb to reach the south slopes of The Triad. The North Face of The Triad is a steep rock wall above a small glacier. There are fine views from the summit of Eldorado Peak, Dorado Needle, Forbidden Peak, Sahale, Boston, Johannesburg, Formidable, Dome, Glacier Peak, Baker, and many others.
Refer to Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 2, for a complete description of routes.
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1949|
|First successful climber(s):||Dick Eilertsen, Dick Lowery, Dick Scales, Don Wilde|
|Nearest major airport:||Seattle-Tacoma|
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