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The Weissmies is the highest mountain in the north eastern Pennine Alps. The approach to the Trift Glacier / South-West Ridge (Triftgrat) route can now be made via lift to Hohsaas which is located virtually at the edge of the glacier. The ascent from Hohsaas takes about 4 hours and involves slopes to 40 degrees and crevasses. The North Ridge is included in "Walliser Alpen Die 100 Schoensten Touren" ( Walliser Alps the 100 Finest Routes ) by Michel Vaucher with Gaston Rebuffat.
Additional Information provided by J. Vranjes: The other normal route (south-east approach) is totally different because it is free of glaciers and more importantly it is without any cable car lines. From the west side, the route starts at Saas Almagell village at around 1670 m above the sea level. The lower part of the route is through a pleasant pine forest and it passes the Almagelleralp hotel ar around 2200 m. After that one should follow the signs towards the Almageller hut (at 2894 m; 3.5 hours to the hut from the village). The route continues towards the Zwischbergen pass (3268 m) and from there it turns towards the north either along the snow-free rocky ridge or along the slope that is usually covered with snow. At around 3950 m one is again on snow and the direction is obvious, towards the north-east with the summit in sight all the time. Along this route the mountain can be climbed directly from the village in around 8 hours. Sleeping at the Almageller hut is a good alternative, it is a pleasant place with running water in the toilet. Some people camp in the rock below the Zwischbergen pass on its west side.
From the east side the route starts at the Zwischbergen village and joins the route described above at the Zwischbergen pass. This is a considerably longer and snow-free approach in the summer time.
As for the equipment, one is on the snow only above 3950 m when the route is not steep and one can manage without crampons, though having them is not a bad idea.
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug|
|Year first climbed:||1855|
|First successful climber(s):||Peter Zurbriggen and Jakob Haeusser|
|Nearest major airport:||Zurich or Geneva|
|Convenient Center:||Saas Grund|
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 48 trip reports for Weissmies.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #22388 - by Agnese on July 08, 2013We started from Hohsaas station (3142 m.) and climbed the Trift glacier that was well covered with snow. No crevasses were visible. The route has some steep slopes.
- Log #21677 - by J. Vranjes on May 18, 2009I climbed Weissmies solo in the last week of July 2007. In order to avoid yet another sleep-less night in a hut, I climbed it directly from Saas Almagel. I was acclimatized as I had already spent...
- Log #21493 - by Alexander Haupt on Oct 29, 2008Ascent via SSE-ridge from Almageller hut and Zwischbergjoch. Found very good conditions. Spectacular and very picturesque snowy summit ridge. Thanks to my climbing partner Gerald from Austria.
- Log #21392 - by Qba on Aug 20, 2008Climbed the normal route from Hochsaas, very cold and snowy in the morning, 3,5 hrs up, 1,45 down The view espeacially on the south side with Lake Maggiore and Como extraordinary.Awesome. Highly...
- Log #21152 - by Mihai Iubasiu on Jan 18, 2008Withe out on the last hour of climb,with short breaks in clouds.Not so much wind on the top,only on our way down,with my team Ady Negrean and Alin Bradeanu.
- Log #21086 - by Matt Coppock on Nov 08, 2007Beautiful blue sky day,got the cable car up to Hohsaas. Walked up to the view point and missed the main track and ended up crossing the glacier below Weissmies. Got back on the track and followed a...
- Log #19816 - by Christine Theodorovics on Sep 27, 2006Very easy 4000m mountain. Started from Hohensaas and went down on the other side (climbing the ridge) via Armagellerhütte. Very nice, but on a nice and sunny day - many climbers.
- Log #9327 - by Roel on Oct 23, 2004Climb from Almagellerhütte via SSE ridge. Very nice climb for a first 4000er. The summit and descent were very cold due to a heavy northern wind. Nice view though.
- Log #9328 - by Steve Leharne on Oct 05, 2004Climbed this with Eric Pirie - from Glenmore Lodge -my friend and guide Chris Ensoll and my son Thomas. We came up from the Almageller Hutte traversed the mountain and came down to the Hohsaas hutte....
- Log #9329 - by Van Remoortel Sven on Sep 06, 2004Started from te Hohsaas hutte(this will be totally rebuild in the near future). Not to difficult climb in Juin. Later that year big spalts. Started in good conditions with good weather forecast.
- Log #9330 - by George and Anna on Aug 16, 2004Normal route from Almagellar hutte, then decided on the summit, to descend by the other route even though we'd left gear in the hut! Arrived at the top of the cable car and descended on this after...
- Log #9331 - by Rishi on Mar 09, 2004A lovely and perfect first four thousand peak with snow, rock and ice climbing. The best climb is from the Almagell hutte up the rocky south west (or was it SE?) ridge to the summit. This is the...
- Log #9332 - by
JJF on Nov 26, 2003Nice and relatively easy climb in excellent weather. "Khumbu Icefall" was an interresting highlight of the climb.
- Log #9333 - by Richard Cremers / Ben-Jan van Diggele on Aug 19, 2003We started from the Hohsaas hut after we took the 7.30 cableway up, and reached the summit at 11.30 am. Fantastic view.
- Log #9334 - by Ben Clowes on Aug 19, 2003Not a cloud in the sky. Went up via the normal route through the glacier. It was just like the Khumbu icefall - ladders bridging crevasses and seracs! Fantastic day out. We camped just above the...
- Log #9335 - by roger gaff on July 14, 2003After fresh snow and not much vis. a satisfying day out was had from the Hohass hut, in fact a fairly typically Scottish one, with 'Big Dan' from Inverness. I'm glad that I was wearing my 'winter'...
- Log #9336 - by André Hangaard on Sep 14, 2002My fourth 4000er! Normal route from the Weissmiess Hütte. Nice and easy all the way.. Although bad weather conditions. No rewarding view on summit.
- Log #9337 - by uli on Sep 12, 2002My first 4000 m high mountain. good for beginners, from hohsaas hütte. very nice view ! easy normal way, only 2 steeper points on the way, but no problem with guide and rope !
- Log #9338 - by Richard Bryant on Sep 09, 2002Left the Almageller hut (which we had to ourselves almost - only 2 other guests) and had the route to ourselves in intermittent sunshine mixed with snow. Weather cleared for summit photo and some...
- Log #9339 - by
Angel on Sep 05, 2002I was looking forward to an ascent on the north ridge, but the white stuff was coming down when we got up. We decided to make an attepmt instead up the glacier. It short easy climb with views of...
- Log #9340 - by Andy Lovell on Sep 04, 2002Tim and I climbed from Weissmieshutte and back to Saas Grund. My first 4000er.
- Log #9341 - by Skopas Thanasis on Aug 19, 2002We started from Saas Almagell(1578m) and went to Almageller hut(2894m) at 29-7-2002.Next day we climb the SSE ridge to the 4023m Weissmies and came down to Hohsaas(3098m) and from there to Saas...
- Log #9343 - by Chris Peat on Apr 30, 2002I climbed this peak with my son, Gareth (age 14), and it was our first 4000er. We traversed from the Almageller hut, up the relatively easy south-east face, although the last short snow ridge before...
- Log #9344 - by DENIS POMMERAY on Apr 25, 2002By skis, from Almageller hut to Wiessmies hut. Nice arete & very good snow.
- Log #9345 - by Otto Schapendonk on Mar 11, 2002Climbed it with 2 German guys in octber 1995. Traversed from Almagellerhütte via south-ridge and west face to Weismiesshütte and down to Saas Grund. Best view ever (on Mischabel) from the toilet at...
- Log #9346 - by Mark Voogd on Jan 05, 2002Adembenemend uitzicht. Mijn eerste vierduizender in Europa.
- Log #9347 - by Tobias Göring on Oct 29, 2001Ulf Wilke and me reached that summit at 9am at a windy saturday in 2001 via SSE-ridge from Almageller hut.Best conditions and nobody else in that winter landscape.Cold but great!!
- Log #9348 - by
Ben on Aug 29, 2001Go early and avoid the crowds - we set out at 5 and were off the glacier by the time some were just starting at 10. 2hrs 40 from HohSaas to top. Dawn was fantastic, as were the high crevasses you...
- Log #9349 - by Jeff Booth on Aug 08, 2001Jeff Booth w/ Dieter Roedder & his friend Andi (last name unknown). Hiked up from Saas Almagell & spent 1 night at Almageller Hutte. Ascended the 556 route, over the arete and down the 555...
- Log #9350 - by Wim Roelants on Aug 05, 2001Ascent by SSE ridge, descent by N side. SSE ridge: excellent snow and nice rock. Nice scramble. N side: Good snow, good snow bridges in crevasse zone.
- Log #9351 - by Manuel Barrada on June 29, 2001"I did it second week june 2001. Still a lot of snow this season, very windy in the summitWe summit by the north face. Too much snow, dangerous sheraks, very big crevases, difficult to avoid...
- Log #9352 - by Daniel Croll on June 26, 2001An amazing experience! This was my first 4000m peak in my life and I really enjoyed it. The view from the summit is just breathtaking (more because of the scenery than because of the thin air). When...
- Log #9353 - by Jan van der Straaten on Dec 18, 2000My first 4000 meter peak. We left from the Hohsaashütte at 3.45 AM across the Trift glacier. this year there was very little snow, which made the climb across the glacier more difficult, with more...
- Log #9354 - by David Ferrer on Dec 08, 2000After Lagginhorn's ascension, day before, we climbed this excellent and beautiful glacier. Not lot of people on the summit! Incredible view downstairs through the clouds. A suspended glacier upon a...
- Log #9355 - by Bart Tukker and Marieke Tukker-Baas on Sep 26, 2000We ascended from the Weissmieshutte, summited at 10.00 a.m and arrived in the Almagellerhutte just before it started to rain! Very nice tour!!
- Log #9356 - by
Marc Vogely & Marjo Jacobs on Sep 25, 2000We traversed from Almageller Hut to Weissmies hut. A lot of fresh snow and excellent weather. Marjo's first 4.000-er!
- Log #9357 - by Christoph Stumpi Suter on Aug 01, 2000My first 4000-Mountain. It was snowing. We climbed it from the Allmageller Hut.
- Log #9358 - by renaat will on Apr 09, 2000We first tried the weissmies coming from the end of the trift glacier, but we lost our way, and had to climb about 500m of real steep ice and snow before ending up on the normal route. We didn't...
- Log #9359 - by Simon Gwyn Roberts on Dec 01, 1999The view over Mischabel/Monte Rosa must be one of the best in the Alps. After the normal route from Hohsaas, a fantastic traverse can be achieved by the far (SW?) ridge, which takes you on a lengthy...
- Log #9360 - by Linard Marc on Oct 01, 1999Wonderful ascent from Almageller Hütte, in spite of the skis on the bag. The sight was great, from Bernina to Mont Blanc, from Italian Lakes to Oberland. The way down was more complex, between...
- Log #9361 - by Pete Darwin on Sep 23, 1999One of the few mountains left in a fit state to climb this summer. Bivied near Hohsaas on Saturday night and summitted in cloud on Sunday morning. Real shame as the view is supposed to be excellent.
- Log #9362 - by Juergen Wein on Sep 22, 1999from the allmageller hut (very nice) via south ridge to the summit. down on the other side over the amazing Trift Glacier. Great!
- Log #9363 - by Christian Screta on Sep 17, 1999Was alone on the way, but met very nice people from all around the world (at least France and Germany). It was a really gorgeous trip and worth to do it again!!!
- Log #9364 - by Roman Meyer on Sep 13, 1999Very impressing route through a wild glacier. 3.5h up, 2h down, excellent conditions and a great view from the top. Very good food at the Hohsaas-hut the evening before.
- Log #9365 - by Kaj Kulp on Sep 01, 1999We climbed the north ridge starting from Weissmies hut and descended the normal route. The summit ridge is very long and exposed. Excellent rock climbing on the ridge and finally a snow ridge to the...
- Log #9366 - by
Debby Richman on July 26, 1999Started alongside big SAC group from hut, in the rain. Definitely appreciated my guide here. So we went up and over pass, steep snow, rock ridge and then summit. Down other side to tram, through...
- Log #9367 - by foinaven on June 04, 1999Done in one day from 3100m (top of cable way) from Saas. Excellent glacier approach-care needed (big holes!). A very picturesque mountain and approach.
- Log #9368 - by Fred Spicker on May 16, 1999Ascent via the Trift Glacier / Triftgrat. Spending the night at Hohsaas gives one better snow conditions and a jump on the crowds.