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Weissmies Trip Report (#21677)

  • Signed By: J. Vranjes
  • Date submitted: May 18, 2009
  • Number of People Encountered:0-10 people

I climbed Weissmies solo in the last week of July 2007. In order to avoid yet another sleep-less night in a hut, I climbed it directly from Saas Almagel. I was acclimatized as I had already spent some time in the area, and had climbed Lagginhorn a few days earlier. Left village at 2:30 AM and passed Almageller hut at around 6. Soon after that I spotted a few parties in distance already at Zwischbergenpass. I arrived there at 7:30, and then mainly up the south-east face I was on the top shortly after 10. Perfect for a solo climbing. Only the flat summit ridge looks like a very steep roof and I did not feel safe. Crampons are not essential although I used them on the snow field above Z. pass and on the summit. I went back the same way because for a soloist the ‘normal’ north-west route towards Hoohsaas did not look like a good idea.

Some useful hints for those who would climb directly from the valley. It may not be easy to find the starting route in Saas Almagel after midnight. So go around the church, behind it there is a sign, take direction left, to Almagel rundweg (at that point it follows a small water stream). After that follow the signs, there should be no problem at all. About 40 minutes after Almageller Alp (at around 2400 m) the route splits, so take the left one. I was sleepy and missed it. Also, going up the south-east face may become risky because of falling stones in case of people that are much higher on the ridge. Better take the ridge from the beginning.

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