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Alpamayo is a steep, perfectly shaped pyramid of ice, one of many fine peaks that comprise the Santa Cruz massif, the northernmost massif of the Cordillera Blanca. Alpamayo is smaller than many of its neighboring peaks, but overcomes this shortcoming by its breathtaking form. It has two sharp summits, North and South, separated by a narrow corniced ridge.
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1951|
|First successful climber(s):||G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn, H. Wiedmann (German expedition)|
|Nearest major airport:||Lima, Peru|
|Convenient Center:||Huarez, Peru|
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 35 trip reports for Alpamayo.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #21319 - by an anonymous user on June 26, 2008Climbed Ferrari route - well equipped with anchors every 50m. Snow stake proved useful for descending the top of the route. We were lucky to get out of a huge serac fall whilst descending from col.
- Log #105 - by Ben Gorman on Aug 22, 2004I actually haven't attempted this peak yet, but I'm planning a trip to attempt Alpamayo and other Cordillera Blanca peaks in May/June 1999. I'm looking for partners - anyone interested drop me an...
- Log #103 - by Steve Head on Aug 20, 2004I am a 28 year-old experienced mountaineer looking for a partner(s) to join me in climbing Alpamayo, Santa Cruz, and several others 6000+ metre peaks in the Cordillera Blanca during the month of...
- Log #100 - by leland turner on Aug 19, 2004See our home page at:http://homepages.msn.com/CorporateWay/valqwest/
- Log #54 - by Chris Franks on Aug 10, 2004We were lucky enough to have perfect weather and conditions on the Ferrari route the day we summited. There were some cornices near the summit but they were small. Absolutely stunning views of the...
- Log #55 - by Jean Jorgensen on May 31, 2004stayed out all night at El Tambo, packed at 6am for a 7 am departure, somehow forgot my crampons had to borrow a pair from a climber descending the mountain. sustained a back injury at the moraine...
- Log #56 - by Robert McGehee on Jan 13, 2004A beautiful mountain and we were lucky enough to be one of 3 teams at high camp. Started the summit climb under an immense full moon and summitted to a clear view in all directions. Returned to camp,...
- Log #57 - by Bandli Risch on Dec 24, 2003Very nice weather and we had the luck to be the only once at the ferrari route. Check pictures at www.senda.ch
- Log #58 - by
Todd Bell on Nov 13, 2003We did not a nice view from the summit day. Alhough the route was in perfect conditions. The nice part of this owercrowded mountain is that all belays stations where fixed, so we all went down...
- Log #59 - by andre de jonge on Oct 30, 2003no summit to much snow for me alone! till 5600m camp. adj
- Log #60 - by Jim St. Jean on Sep 24, 2003Climbed Italian/Ferrari route (true Ferrari out of condition, this is next runnel to the left almost identical). Menacing ice towers near summit, route in great shape, some fixed anchors, summitted...
- Log #61 - by
Kurt on Sep 05, 2003Nice weather and climbing. A little ice in the middle. Beautiful mountain.
- Log #62 - by
Jeroen on Sep 01, 2003Had to abandon climb due to avalanche: probably a serac broke off from maybe as high as the summit ridge. Avalanche path a hundred meters wide, crossed three times by the route up. Due to amazon...
- Log #63 - by
manuel on Aug 29, 2003Had the fantastic view only for a few minutes, then it was clouded. But the feeling was great anyway.
- Log #64 - by Maarten Edelman on Aug 22, 2003Wouter van Kammen, one of my dearest friends, with whom I climbed Aconcagua in january 2003, died on the Alpamayo in an avalanche July 21st, 2003. I just want to say that my thoughts are with his...
- Log #65 - by Francisco Bezanilla on Aug 16, 2003Beautiful Climb. Perfect weather in the nihgt of 12 to 13 and all day July 13.Previous night snowed. That same day several other climbers made it and a group installed a fixed rope for a later climb.
- Log #67 - by Mario Dutil on Sep 30, 2002Tres belle montagne, faire sans faute, Pour plus amples informations voir mon site WEB au www.sommets.net ou ecrivez-moi. Bye.
- Log #69 - by Ulrich Prinz on Oct 05, 2001The mountain itself is not bad, but it was soooo crowded -> No Fun ! See my page for complete story: http://UlrichPrinz.de -> Travel, Peru (or http://members.tripod.de/UlrichPrinz/travel/peru/)
- Log #70 - by Elizabeth Kay and Bridget Collier on Aug 21, 2001Always carry 2 axes and plenty of hair conditioner for after -you never know who you might meet!
- Log #71 - by fabio airoldi on Aug 21, 2001"via de los italianos" on the left of Ferrari route, this year the rimaya is too open good conditions, good weather: only five people (whit us) on the route ! 5:15 departure from Camp 1,...
- Log #72 - by paul michael scanlon on July 12, 2001Never quite sure if we were actually on Ferrari Route. Two people who led the climb have been on the route multiple times and felt that we were actually on a different line or the route has changed...
- Log #73 - by Jan Poppe on Mar 11, 2001Marvellous experience. Trek from base camp to col was really hard. Climbing the ferrari-route is a joy, best climbing experience so far. Once on top the view however was very limited (in fact zero)...
- Log #74 - by Sander Boekhorst on Jan 28, 2001Absolutely recommendable climb. For some years now August is slightly unstable weatherwise. The last four rope lengths were icy and well used. Not so crouded though as supposed to be July.
- Log #75 - by Beto Santillan on Jan 27, 2001IMPORTANT TIPS Huaraz city will be your base to access any mountain in the Cordillera Blanca, used to be a quite town, not any more since 3 years ago two big mining companies have started operations...
- Log #76 - by Beto Santillan on Jan 27, 2001my first summit on this beatiful mountain was on 9th aug 1994 in a midle of storm (3:32pm), with a bunch of Mexican "cuates" , getting out of it was pretty scaring, couldn't find the stacas for...
- Log #77 - by Josef Lunger on Nov 10, 2000Perfectly secured route. The bergschrund was o.k. A lot of snow.
- Log #78 - by
John Pearson on Nov 09, 2000Great view, pity about the fixed gear
- Log #79 - by Mark Robbins on Nov 09, 2000Fortunately for myself, my friend Rick and our guide Rolfe Oostra, the storms and people of July and early August had all left, and we were alone for two nights at col camp and our summit climb on...
- Log #80 - by Rob Spinosa on Nov 09, 2000A beautiful peak and a great climbing experience. The same holds true for its neighbor, Quitaraju. For photos and route description, visit my site at: http://www.altidude.com
- Log #81 - by michael feldman on Nov 09, 2000I climbed with Swis Stockton of Granite Arches. Great climb. Cold at night, warm in the daytime sun. Bring food and water (200 calories and 1 quart of water are not enough).
- Log #82 - by Shaun Parent on Nov 09, 2000I will be hanging out in huaraz during the summer of 2000. Look for me at the Cafe Andino!! Cheers!!
- Log #83 - by
Birck on Nov 09, 2000Nice weather, nice climbing, only a little ice in the middle. 4 hours to reach the summit (we were 7). What a beautiful mountain !
- Log #84 - by Kyle Amstadter on Nov 09, 2000Watch for falling seracs on appraoch to Col!
- Log #85 - by Jen Petrik on Nov 09, 2000If anyone wants to call and talk about their trip to Peru and exchange beta please call. I am planning to return next summer and summit Alpamyo as well as Pisco. Anyone in Colorado that wants to...
- Log #87 - by Gil Piekarz on Nov 09, 2000The most pleasant Base Camp that I know. The trail from the beginning (Cachapampa) is really beantiful, and the mountain....huuaaauuuu!!!