Mount Stuart

Featured photo of Mount Stuart

Mount Stuart is one of the highest, most distinctive non-volcanic peaks in the Cascades. Its gigantic summit wedge is supported by three prominent ridges, with many steep faces and glaciers. Perhaps the most powerful sight is the northeast face, whose sheer granite wall towers above the Ice Cliff Glacier, a 1400-foot vertical ice wall.

Elevation (feet): 9,415
Elevation (meters): 2,869
Continent: North America
Country: United States
Range/Region: Cascade Range
State: Washington
Latitude: 47.475158
Longitude: -120.902395
Difficulty: Technical Climb
Best months for climbing: Jun, Jul, Aug
Year first climbed: 1873
First successful climber(s): A. McPherson and party
Nearest major airport: Seattle, Washington
Convenient Center: Leavenworth, Washington

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

There are 31 trip reports for Mount Stuart.

Select any entry from the list below:

  • Log #22541 - by theyogiclimber on July 01, 2016
    Solo, Cascadian Couloir route. Nice day, not another soul encountered. 
  • Log #13965 - by Dan Wallem on Nov 14, 2004
    It wasn't too hard climbing the south face in the hot August sun but coming down was a bit tricky. We descended in a different direction and had to hang on to some ledges as handrails to keep our...
  • Log #13994 - by Mullet man McGee "Nathan Lowe" on Nov 01, 2004
    Love a mountain... Kiss a granite face... Ropes strung high for thee to embrace. Man thou ice axes crafted with care When wandering the forestlands take watch for a bear! Thouest my...
  • Log #13969 - by Jim Younkin on Aug 30, 2004
    I have summited on Stuart about 5 times, the first time was Cascadian, I then did Sherpa Glacier couple of times, The North Ridge, and I got to the top of Sherpa Glacier in winter. I was in a snow...
  • Log #13970 - by Ryan 'The Stud' Oldham on Aug 25, 2004
    Excellent scramble up the Cascadian Couloir... whiteout at the top, knew we were at the summit when we found the register. Climbing partners: Andrew deal and Dave Hess
  • Log #13971 - by marius on Aug 02, 2004
    Cascadian route, no problems, straightforward route finding, good cairns. Passed snowfield on left. No axe or crampons needed, bring hiking poles for controlled speedy descent. Say hi to the lone...
  • Log #13972 - by Gary Dorrance on Nov 27, 2003
    Awesome climb. The views are pretty good, but the real deal is the granite. Some of the greatest rock I've climbed. If you ask me, four stars for this one.
  • Log #13973 - by Thomas W on Oct 03, 2003
    We had great weather on summit day, a strong party, good rock scrambling and some moderately steep snow slopes...all in all, a fine climb.
  • Log #13974 - by Stu Frink on Aug 18, 2003
    Cilmbed via Longs Pass and up the Cascadian Col. Some snow still left at top of col., but easy to circumnavigate to the left. Summited with Paul and Jordan Michelson, David Diehl, Tim Jackson and...
  • Log #13975 - by Scott Perkins on May 23, 2003
    Summited via North Ridge on July 5th with good friend Keith Daellenbach. After a stormy/wet approach the weather broke, we encountered fun climbing on good quality rock. We simulclimbed w/running pro...
  • Log #13976 - by Rich Briggs on May 10, 2003
    Beautiful mountain, climbed Cascadian Couloir, easy and very fun.
  • Log #13977 - by Brian Lasater on Feb 12, 2003
    It was really fantastic. Watch for rock fall in low snow years. I nearly got taken out by rocks near the false summit. What a view! Looking straight down at Lake Stuart.
  • Log #13978 - by Kevin Koski on Nov 23, 2002
    Wow, what a great 19 hour adventure up the West Ridge. Partners Jeff Mercer and George.
  • Log #13980 - by Don Matheson on Aug 30, 2002
    Climbed Stuart via Longs Pass and the Cascadian Couloir with Artie Huycke. We left the Esmeralda Basin parking lot at 6 a.m., summited at 4 p.m., and returned by midnight.
  • Log #13981 - by Joe Kania on June 27, 2002
    Ascended the West Ridge on 6-23-02, found the route-finding the biggest challenge and the rock climbing delightful. Forced to bivy at the W Ridge notch. Summitted next day after a couple of very fun...
  • Log #13982 - by Adam Gorski on May 20, 2002
    The first time I tried to summit I went right up the muddle of the south face looking from longs pass. All the rock was vey loose about halfway up and I turned around. The second time I spent all...
  • Log #13983 - by semaj imagakan on Sep 11, 2001
    north ridge w/gendarme. excellent climb -fun and consistently moderate 5th class climbing. done in approach shoes, except for the gendarme which is very positive, clean and well protected. a fixed...
  • Log #13984 - by Ray Borbon on Aug 14, 2001
    2nd time summiting. Scott Jouppi and I climbed the North Ridge. Very Classic! We finished it on the 12 of Aug at 9:17 am.
  • Log #13985 - by charles burnett on Oct 09, 2000
    Climbed the west ridge with Tom and Paul. 13 1/2 hours from car to car. We brought a rope, small rack, and a poor excuse for bivy gear. Luckily we didnt use any of it.
  • Log #13986 - by Nicolas on Sep 19, 2000
    did the north ridge whith the gendarme variation nice route good view but very long descent dont bring to much big gear there one big camalot stuck in the off with pitch off the gendarme.
  • Log #13987 - by Rahul Ravel on Aug 07, 2000
    This was a climb organized by the Mazamas climbing club, based in Portland, OR. The climbing team consisted of Thomas Miiler, Kent Kimball, Aaron Clemons, and myself. We did the North Ridge and...
  • Log #13988 - by Ray Borbon on Apr 13, 2000
    new route lower northwest face of west ridge about 5.7-5.8 about grade 3. been a while since i did this.
  • Log #13989 - by M. Stanton on Mar 30, 2000
    I climbed the West Ridge with Steve Nesland on a three day trip that included a fun climb on Ingall's Peak next door. We got a late start, and encountered lots of snow. But the weather was beautiful,...
  • Log #13990 - by Mathieu Bolullo on Mar 24, 2000
    Climbed the west ridge with Martha Johnson of Seattle. A lot of routefinding and it took 11 hrs from bottom to summit. We descended by the Cascadian Couloir which took forever we got back on the...
  • Log #13991 - by Martin Hanson on Sep 13, 1999
    On Friday sept. 10, we treked into camp from Long's pass. Wonderful view of Stuart from the pass (6300'). We camped at 4800' across the stream in the valley at the base of Stuart.
  • Log #13992 - by Michael Bingham on Aug 27, 1999
    North Ridge Did bypass (to Left) of the friction pitch to avoid hail covered ledges. Awesome route.
  • Log #13995 - by Terry Swicegood on Mar 13, 1999
    I climbed this wonderful peak with Rocky Henderson, subsequently president of Portland Mountain Rescue. We used Beckey's guide to help us. We camped at Ingalls Lake and left before daylight. As you...
  • Log #13996 - by Fred Spicker on Jan 19, 1999
    July 1976 via N. Ridge with David Coughlin - Feb. 1976 via Ice Cliff Glacier with Rick Johnson - July 1977 via the N. Ridge with Rick Johnson - July 1978 via Sherpa Glacier with Monica Spicker - May...
  • Log #13997 - by Tom Breit on Jan 03, 1999
    A long day -- over 13 hours out and back. I left Seattle around 4:30, and was on the trail at about 7:15. It was a beautiful morning: cool and clear, wild flowers everywhere. I would have expected...
  • Log #13998 - by michael ackerman on Jan 01, 1999
    rain and snowed off of the north ridge. Doubled back to Asgard Pass and the next day traversed the Alpine Lakes all the way back to Snow creek wall trailhead. Bring your hiking feet!!! 98'ECABLE...
  • Log #14000 - by Adam Peck on Nov 08, 1998
    Great climb! Did it 70 years after my Grandpa did it back in 1926.