Mount Stuart

Mount Stuart Trip Report (#13995)

I climbed this wonderful peak with Rocky Henderson, subsequently president of Portland Mountain Rescue. We used Beckey's guide to help us. We camped at Ingalls Lake and left before daylight. As you study the mountain, it's important to try to figure out which chimney to take. We took the second chimney (the correct one) which is east of the west ridge. it's 2nd and 3rd class, exquisite granite. At the very top of this chimney cross over at its top to the next chimney and climb behind Long John Tower, staying on the right side of the gulley going to Long John Tower. From LJT we took variation number one (Beckey)--ledges which traerse over to just beneath the West Ridge Notch. We roped up at the West Ridge notch and follow the diagram on page 309 of Beckey's First edition. One lead around the corner to the north side of the ridge. Another lead puts you at the "tiny notch." It's 3rd and 4th class with a couple of hard moves. One lead from the tiny notch down and across a wide ledge, with no pro needed. One lead up first feasible looking blocks (3rd class, 2 pieces of pro.) This takes you halfway up the summit pyramid. The final lead with oen hard move takes you to the summit. Take four friends and 6 wired stoppers. We had crampons and ice axe but didn't need them. In some years you might, I would always take them along. We descended the Cascadian Couloir, an ugly, dirty rocky gully. On the descent we passed around the south nose of the false summit--very tricky, stay high at the base of the nose. It took us 12 hours and 30 minutes rt. Oftentimes there is no water, and we, like everyone else, were parched by the time we hit the valley. I would carry 3 liters, minimum.

The rock is mostly good, the climbing very aesthetic, the exposure minimum, but there is some. It was one of the most enjoyable climbs I've ever done.

Mount Stuart Trip Report Index