|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1855|
|First successful climber(s):||Charles Hudson, J. Smyth, C. Smyth, E. Stephenson, John Birkbeck and party|
|Nearest major airport:||Geneva, Milan, Zurich|
|Convenient Center:||Zermatt, Switzerland|
Dufourspitze is the highest mountain in Switzerland, and the second highest in The Alps. It is the summit of the huge Monte Rosa massif. Monte Rosa's glaciers flow in abundance, but only on the northern flanks, where they stream towards the pastures of the Zermatt valley. The south and east side, in contrast, present a dramatic, steep and the most impressing wall in Europe with a 2500 meters vertical fall.
Thanks to Oyvind Lind Petersen for this description.
The following weather information is provided for the nearest supported peak. The weather icons reflect weather conditions from the base of the mountain, while the wind, temperature and humidity reflect conditions at the summit.
Weather by meteoexploration.
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 13 trip reports for Dufourspitze.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #22214 - by Roy Lindman on Aug 04, 2011"My attempts to climb Brunegghorn & Weisshorn had failed... ...I decided to go on the Dufourspitze, I could improve my technical skills there aswell and now it would be sunny." I was sitting...
- Log #21775 - by Christine Theodorovics on Sep 28, 2009Left at 4am from the Capanna Margarita (very crowded and at +4500m not the nicest place to sleep. Climbed the Zumsteinspitze - traversed it (some critical points at the crest). Then climed onwards...
- Log #20141 - by Steve Smith on July 30, 2006Left Monte Rosa hut (excellent) at 0300 - moraine and boulder fields, then easy glacier and steepening snow up to the col called Sattel, then straightforward but exciting final ridge (mixed snow and...
- Log #14207 - by
toon helsen on Apr 28, 2004we climbed this mountain from the monte rosahut. Absolutly beautifull, technically very easy, but a very nice climb with great satisfaction. There's no doubt about it, I will do the summit again from...
- Log #14208 - by Rulick on Sep 24, 2003We could not go to Matterhorn (the normal route was closed due to rock fall), so we climbed Monte Rosa's Dufourspitze. Great route that combines steep ice ramp and sharp ridge climbing. Strongly...
- Log #14209 - by
Jon Martin on Sep 10, 2003We came from the Refugio Margherita and climbed to the East summit (false summit). From there we went to the main summit. On the west ridge we went down to the Monte Rosa Hut. A brilliant view at...
- Log #14212 - by Janos Granicz on Feb 28, 2002Karoly Barta - Janos Granicz Our route: Obere Plattje (our tent) - Monte Rosa Glacier - Scholle - Satteltole - West Ridge - Dufourspitze - Grenzgipfel - Silbersattel - Nordend - Silbersattel -...
- Log #14213 - by Gianni Perelli Ercolini on Aug 09, 2001Great climbing via Cresta Rey (Rey ridge) in perfect weather condiction. Quite long and complex approach to the ridge, if you start from Capanna Gnifetti otherwise you can try, only try, to sleep at...
- Log #14214 - by
S Buck on June 05, 2001Great climb, very long though..a very scary ridge at the end but all worth while when the summit is reached. watch out for fast weather changes from teh italian side
- Log #14215 - by Carli Marco on Feb 12, 2001Panorama stupendo in ogni direzione, eccezionale e ravvicinata veduta della Nordend. Grande soddisfazione, pur sempre la pi alta del Monte Rosa !!!
- Log #14216 - by Toomas Holmberg on Nov 14, 2000Not bad traverse Zumsteinspitze to Dufourspize and down in Switzerland.
- Log #14217 - by Öyvind Lind Petersen on Nov 11, 2000- Are you sure? I didn't really understand my guide when he told me that this is the very summit. It was 8:30 AM 23 July and the weather was perfect. Only one cloud, and this one was hiding...
- Log #14218 - by Dániel Marosffy on Aug 22, 2000I have not known before what mortal fear really is. After all it was a fantastic climbe but I hated it then. The very end of the route is an exposed ridge that is long and unsafe. What's more the...