The peak has been likened to a "great obelisk of rock", a classic horn created by the merging of several glacial cirques. Three remarkable ridges radiate from the summit (N, W, and E), Alpine Grade II-III and 5.2-5.8 (depending upon route and which guide you survey). The West Ridge receives the most attention due to its inclusion in the 50 Classic Climbs in North America. The attention is well-deserved, but don't expect to spend a lonely day on the route. The North Ridge is much more alpine and committing while the East Ridge Routes are much more technical (5.7-5.8 on the Direct Ridge) or loose and unsavory (NE Ledge AKA East Ridge had a fatal fall on traverse in 1975). The warm south face is generally downslabbed and holds a number of serious alpine rock climbs 8-10 pitches Grade III-IV / up to 5.10-A3. Selected Climbs in the Cascades writes "There is no easy way off Forbidden Peak." True. True. Reference material from Beckey Guide Vol 2 and Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Potterfield and Nelson.
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug|
|Year first climbed:||1940|
|First successful climber(s):||L. Anderson, F. Beckey, H, Beckey, J. Crooks, D. Lind|
|Nearest major airport:||Seattle|
|Convenient Center:||Marblemount, WA|
Thanks to J Lee Davis for adding this peak.
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 5 trip reports for Forbidden Peak.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #19472 - by Robert Paul on Sep 27, 2006In August 1968, Bruce Fitzwater, of Portland, and I climbed Forbidden via the first route in Beckey's original (1961) Climber's Guide to the Cascades and Olympics. We went partway up Sahale Arm, and...
- Log #14232 - by
Brian Paterik on Feb 06, 2001My first climb of this fantastic peak was via the NW face, a beautiful aerate leading directly to the summit from the remote n. Side of the peak. This appears to be a route seldom visited, however in...
- Log #14233 - by Kevin Nelson on Oct 31, 2000We picked a perfect day for the summit. Luckily for us there was no other group on the west ridge that day. Started at 4am to reach the coulier while the snow was still hard. Lucky enough to have...
- Log #14234 - by Aidan Haley on Oct 22, 2000The whole trip started out with a long drive to marblemount then another hour on the bad cascade river road. we (my cousin and i) got to the pull out and were alarmed at how many cars where there. so...
- Log #14235 - by J Lee Davis on May 28, 2000For details and artistic embellishment, see the account on my website. East Ridge (AKA NE Face) 1997 - bailed at the first gendarme rap into the gulley due to 8-10 inches snowfall the previous...