Mount Stanely is the highest mountain in the Ruwenzori range, and the highest peak in Africa outside of Mounts Kilimanjaro (19,563 ft.) and Kenya (17,057 ft.). The Bujuku valley is enclosed within a steep triangle formed by Mount Stanley and Mounts Speke and Baker, the second and third highest Ruwenzori peaks respectively. The worst part about climbing in the Ruwenzori is the approach, as four days of jungle and bogs guard the mountains on both the Zaire and Uganda sides. There are, however, good trails in the mountains, and plenty of huts for overnight. From Mutsori, Zaire, local tribesman are available as guides or porters.
Stanley's summit has two primary twin summits, and several subsidiary peaks: Margherita 16,763 ft. 5,109 m. Alexandra 16,703 ft. 5,091 m. Albert 16,690 ft. 5,087 m. Savoia 16,330 ft. 4,977 m. Ellena 16,300 ft. 4,968 m. Elizabeth 16,170 ft. 4,929 m. Phillip 16,140 ft. 4,920 m. Moebius 16,130 ft. 4,916 m. Great Tooth 15,100 ft. 4,603 m.
|Country:||Congo, Democratic Republic of the|
|Best months for climbing:||Jan, Jul, Aug|
|Year first climbed:||1906|
|First successful climber(s):||Duke of the Abruzzi, J. Petigax, C. Ollier, J. Brocherel|
|Nearest major airport:||Kampala, Uganda, Kigali, Rwanda, Bujumbura, Burundi, Nairobi, Kenya|
|Convenient Center:||Mutsori, Zaire, Bugoye, Uganda|
There are 9 trip reports for Mount Stanley.
- Log #14811 - by Jamie Strauss on Oct 19, 2003Along with Simon Wilson Stevens, Charlie Case, two excellent local guides (Dennis and Fulliman) and a member of the Volcanoes team we summited just after midday. The glaciers, although clearly...
- Log #14812 - by Corrado Casinovi on Jan 08, 2003From Elena hut climbed before Point Margherita (normal route) and then Point Alexandra (ascended north face and descended south-east ridge)with a very pleasant weather!
- Log #14813 - by John Wightman on Dec 24, 2002Only summitted after spending a day at the base of Speke glacier trying to warm up a cup of soup in a howling blizzard. Magic climb!
- Log #14814 - by scott anderson on July 10, 2002Pre-dawn start got us to the top 9 a.m., a spectacular clear sunny day, every peak in the Ruwnzoris visible. But what I will remember most of all: the numerous weathered marker wands, scattered all...
- Log #14815 - by dominic richard on Aug 05, 2001the ski and snowboard club of uganda is looking for new members. has anybody else ever skied or snowboarded in the ruwenzoris?
- Log #14816 - by John Margesson on July 10, 2001Dave Feller and I climbed this alone in the days of Idi Amin. A fantastic experiance which I still remember well. Love to go there again.
- Log #14817 - by
paul cameron on May 22, 1999A memory that will stay with me forever - I am freezing cold, and can barely see three metres in front of me. We walk along a narrow col that heads up to Margherita peak.One side is the Mount Stanley...
- Log #20584 - by Jurgen Wohlfarter on Jan 07, 2007We did a 6 day circular route starting from Ibanda (Nyakalengija) in anti-clockwise direction staying in tents and reaching Elena Hut at 4540m as our highest point. Our team comprised of 3 guys from...
- Log #22247 - by Jake Norton on Sep 14, 2011The first climb of my 4 year project, Challenge21. Read dispatches and more information at http://blog.challenge21.com