Best approach is from Redfish Lake. Follow trail past Alpine Lake and leave trail to scramble up and over small pass on north side of Pt 9701. Drop down past Warbonnet Lakes and Feather Lakes; best camp spot is Bead Lakes. (Approach to Bead Lakes is approx 8 miles). From Bead Lakes, scramble about 1000 feet to the saddle on the SE side of Warbonnet. The climb starts here. Climb the SE face (Regular Route) 5.7 / 7 short pitches. It joins the SW rib route on pitch 6. The summit pitch is easy and spectacular- lots of exposure and solid positive rock. The true summit is a breathtaking overhang that you stand on top of. Enjoy the views: Tohobit Peak to the west, the Mayan Temple to the SE, Baron Peak to the NW and the Monte Verita Ridge to the east. Books www.idahoaclimbingguide.com The latest book on climbing Idaho's many mountains.
|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1958|
|First successful climber(s):||Paul Petzoldt, J. Speck, C. Wilson, C. Fish and B. Merriam.|
|Nearest major airport:||Boise|
Thanks to Sean Duffy for adding this peak.
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NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 6 trip reports for Warbonnet Peak.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #15433 - by Mike Pearson on Sep 03, 2003Did the S Face (SE Face? I think they're the same)Really nice route. 5.6 - 5.7 with lots of variations on solid rock. Fantastic summit pitch! My advice on the descent is to rap the route, not...
- Log #15434 - by walt on Mar 06, 2003Great, airy climb! Took the 5.7 route most of the way but it's easy to get off-route so rememeber, if you find yourself pulling 5.10 YOU WENT THE WRONG WAY. Incredible summit.
- Log #15435 - by Sean Duffy on July 15, 2002Climbed the SE Face Route (5.7). The summit pitch was amazing- easy but exposed. The basecamp at Bead Lakes was one of the best I've stayed at- tons of rock spires in the area (Mayan Temple, Blue...
- Log #15436 - by Dan on Oct 18, 2000First ascent was by Paul Petzoldt and Bob Merriam in 1947. Don't forget to try the 5.11 "Black Crystal" route.
- Log #15437 - by MICHAEL HOWARD on Oct 17, 2000i BELIEVE THAT YOU WILL FIND THAT THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE PEAK WAS DONE BY THE LATE pAUL pETZOLT AND THE iOWA mOUNTAINEERS SOME TIME IN THE LATE FORTIES
- Log #15438 - by Steve Silva on Oct 16, 2000SW Rib is a great route... strenuous and long. Highly recommended.