Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world. From 1838 until 1849, it was believed to be the highest. It is an enormous mountain mass, and many satellite peaks rise from its narrow icy ridges. It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles northwest of Darjeeling. It is the most easterly of the great 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya. Though not successfully climbed until 1955, it was first attempted in 1905, but four members of that international party were killed in an avalanche. The threat of avalanches and mudslides is omnipresent in the area, which receives very heavy precipitation throughout much of the year. As inspiring as Kangchenjunga's beauty is that at least the first three parties to ascend the mountain never attempted the final few feet to the summit out of voluntary respect for the Sikkimese, who consider the summit sacred. The successful British expedition of 1955 set the standard by stopping a few feet short of the actual summit, in honor of the local religion. The next two ascents were teams led respectively by India's Colonel N. Kumar in 1977, and by British climber Doug Scott in 1979. These parties also honored the tradition. Various origins of the name Kangchenjunga have been debated, but it is often translated as Five Treasuries of the Great Snow, a reference to the five high peaks that rise from the surrounding glaciers.
|Range/Region:||Sikkim-Eastern Nepal Himalaya|
|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||Apr, May|
|Year first climbed:||1955|
|First successful climber(s):||George Band, Joe Brown, (British expedition)|
|Nearest major airport:||Kathmandu, Nepal|
|Convenient Center:||Hille, Nepal via Dharan Bazar|
There are 12 trip reports for Kangchenjunga.
- Log #3448 - by Craig Van Hoy on June 20, 2004I was able to summit Kangchenjunga with guides Phil Ershler & Ed Viesturs on a clear, sunny day in May. Our expedition was the first American Expedition to summit the worlds third highest...
- Log #3449 - by Craig Van Hoy on June 20, 2004I summited Kangchenjunga with Phil Ershler and Ed Viesturs on a sunny,clear day in May via the North Face. This was the first ascent by an American Expedition to reach the summit. Several days later...
- Log #3450 - by Gonzalo Velez on Dec 30, 2002My best climbing experience! I was part of a 8 member international expedition led by Piotr Pustelnik on the south side. We were the only team attempting Kang and had the mountain for ourselves! It...
- Log #3451 - by Kishan on Sep 16, 2002I am a great fan of the mountains of the world, especially the Himalaya's. I have been a very big fan of Chris Bonington, Dougal Scott, Tenzin, et al. Keep up the good work and please add more Photos...
- Log #3454 - by Col. Kumar (Bull) on Jan 04, 2002I led the first succesfull ascent of the North Eastern Spur. We lost on climber while traversing the spur but finally managed put our men on top. Have also led the first Indian Ascent of Nanda...
- Log #3455 - by Mandi Andrews on Oct 01, 2001I was just doing some research on this mountain for Geography and I was just wondering if you would e-mail me back to tell me a little more about this mountain. Thanks a bunch!
- Log #3456 - by
Karen on Sep 30, 2001Danphe Beir, nearly killed me. But what an experience!! Go for it you "different" ones. You know who you are....:_)
- Log #3457 - by Ed Viesturs on Aug 06, 2001This was Ed's first 8000m peak.
- Log #3459 - by Philip McMillan on Feb 11, 2001Aliester Crowley visited this mountain a few years back,now an old friend and long dead ,I place his name here in these records where it belongs. H e did not live to do it himself.
- Log #3461 - by Enda Walsh on Oct 09, 2000I became the first Irish person to summit at 11.30 on the 1st October. Three British climbers also summitted that morning.
- Log #3462 - by Borislav Dimitrov on June 05, 2000KANGCHENJUNGA International Expedition 2001 The expedition is organized by Borislav Dimitrov, who has already hold 10 expeditions in Himalaya. This goal is Kangchenjunga- North face. The meeting...
- Log #22186 - by cleo weidlich on May 27, 2011I summitted this giant massif of pristine beauty on May 20, 2011 @ 7:48 am along with Pema Chrring. I left C4 @ 8pm in a crispy new moon night. An incredible mountaineering experience of ice, rock,...