White Princess

One of the major summits of the prominent N-S ridge east of the Richardson Hwy in the Alaska Range. Approach via the Castner Glacier. The easiest ascent route starts around 6000 feet on the right (south), or M'Ladies branch of the glacier and ascends a prominent southerly ridge of the mountain, across from M'Ladies Peak. The ridge consists of easy, though rotten, rock until about 8200 feet, after that it gets steeper. There is a small notch in the ridge which must be either rappelled or bypassed on the left (west) side, which involves a rather steep snow traverse. I don't recommend the latter unless the snow is very stable; even a small avalanche there could have disastrous consequences. From this notch, there is about 500 feet of rather steep rock that may or may not be snow covered, depending on the time of year and the season. It is better when snow covered, because the rock here is very unstable; thus I recommend doing this mountain early in the season, or after a prolonged period of snowfall. After this steep part, a long, graceful snow ridge leads right up to the summit. Depending on the snow conditions, parts of this ridge may require a running belay. The good news is that this ridge does not usually have a large cornice. Descend by the same route. There are more technical routes on the north, west, and east sides, and by the south glaciers.

Elevation (feet): 9,850
Elevation (meters): 3,002
Continent: North America
Country: United States
Range/Region: Alaska Range
State: Alaska
Latitude: 63.42
Longitude: -145.4205
Difficulty: Basic Snow/Ice Climb
Best months for climbing: May, Jun
Nearest major airport: Fairbanks
Convenient Center: Delta Junction

Thanks to Alex for adding this peak.

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

There are 2 trip reports for White Princess.

Select any entry from the list below:

  • Log #16002 - by Clinton A Culp on Aug 06, 2002
    White Princess, 9,850(+-), AK, USA, Alpine, 27 July 2002, Benjamin Post, Michael Grassl, Jim Gonzales, Mark Fisher, AK Grade I, Class 3/4, West Ridge. At 0530 we awoke to 25m of visibility. Had...
  • Log #16003 - by Alex on Mar 07, 2001
    Attempted the summit in June 1999. 2 separate attempts - one up the s. part of the main N-S ridge of the mountain, the other up the S-SE spur. Both failed; got up to 8,400 feet on the last one before...