Mount Meeker Trip Report (#16195)
- Signed By: Jim Matt
- Date submitted: May 30, 2001
- Date(s) climbed: 5/29/2001
We chose the Dreamweaver route on Meeker in favor of doing Kiener's on Longs Peak, due to snow conditions. We had three in our party: Bob Chase (guide from Colorado Mountain School), Ed (climbing partner), and myself. We woke up at midnight to showers & thunderstorms that gave way to clear skies at the Longs Peak trailhead at 1:45. After the familiar trek up the trail, we veered to the Chasm Lake cutoff, then headed up a snowfield away from the shelter cabin (with ice axe & crampons). As the snowfield got steeper, Bob short-roped Ed & I for safety. We then reached the start of the Dreamweaver couloir, which is mostly snow/ice, just left of the Flying Buttress on Meeker. In the steeper snow/ice sections, Bob belayed us from above. We felt strong that day, occasionally front-pointing and using an ice tool in 55-60 degree mixed climbing. At the top of the couloir, you hit the summit ride, then proceed to the small summit after doing some very careful scrambling. The weather held beautifully (a little snow was falling at the summit, but mostly just some broken clouds surrounded us), and we were treated to awesome views of the south side of Long's Peak, Sandbeach Lake, and a good part of the Front Range. Our decent was via the Loft, with a couple of rappels and some glissading. I cannot recommend the Colorado Mountain School (and Bob Chase, our guide) highly enough for an awesome experience!