Khan Tengri

Featured photo of Khan Tengri

Khan Tengri is a huge icy pyramid, located just south of the point where Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and China's borders meet. The mountain is the center of a small knot around which the Tian Shan's highest peaks are clustered.? Khan Tengri is the second highest peak of the Tian Shan, and until 1946 was believed to be the highest. Pik Pobeda (7,439 m.), a short distance south, is now known to be the range's highest peak.? The actual elevation of Khan Tengri is subject to some debate. The official elevation is often listed as 6,995 meters, fifteen meters less than that shown above (7,010). The former figure is the elevation of the highest solid point, which was by definition the "highest point" in USSR geological surveys. The higher figure is the elevation of a cornice on the summit, from which climbers can look down upon the survey sign.

Elevation (feet): 22,998
Elevation (meters): 7,010
Continent: Asia
Country: Kazakhstan/Kyrgyzstan
Range/Region: Central Tien Shan
Latitude: 42.2108
Longitude: 80.175
Difficulty: Major Mountain Expedition
Best months for climbing: Aug, Sep
Year first climbed: 1931
First successful climber(s): M.T. Pogrebetsky's expedition
Nearest major airport: Almaty, Kazakhstan, в?mqi, China, Moscow, Russia
Convenient Center: Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, Karakol, Kyrgzystan

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

There are 30 trip reports for Khan Tengri.

Select any entry from the list below:

  • Log #3564 - by Serg Komarov on Nov 01, 2004
    Have a good camera to make a beautiful pictures. Last year (1996) we was unhappy in our attempt - storm weather, but now there is no wind at all. In 1999 we are planed to do acclimatization on...
  • Log #3535 - by Paul Adler on Sep 08, 2004
    Summitted with partner Fiona Harrington on a clear windless day shortly after a couple of Russians and ahead of the Jagged Globe group and a lone Fin. See our website for photos and full details,...
  • Log #3537 - by Keld Laursen on Feb 18, 2004
    Carsten Engedal and I from the Danish North Side Expedition 2003, summited in fantastic weather in a season that appears to have had pretty bad weather in general. See pictures from our expedition...
  • Log #3538 - by Ulrich on Jan 20, 2004
    Just find the page, I'm not expiriensed climber, just was strong enough to do this. Best vishes toAsia Tourism and thanks for support.
  • Log #3539 - by Alex on Aug 29, 2003
    Unusually bad weather this year. Many thanks for great support from all members of
  • Log #3540 - by Leto on Aug 11, 2003
    As far as I know, noone summited this year yet. Very bad weather, much snow. Turned back from under the Chapaeva shoulder. The Kantengri(.
  • Log #3541 - by vivek m on May 06, 2003
    Hello, I am planning to climb Khan Tengri this summer, but at the moment I am by myself and therefore looking towards joining a team or set of individuals with a common objective. I have climbed 6000...
  • Log #3542 - by Ray Cornips on Apr 28, 2003
    We plan climbs during the summer of 2003 starting from Northern Inylchek BC. Has anyone information/ pictures off the north side on the peaks north of Khan Tengri: Maxim Gorki, Soviet Kyrchisia,...
  • Log #3543 - by Kurtoga on Apr 19, 2003
    Do you know that ancient Turkish people belived that their spirit goes to this legendary mountain when they die? This is some kind of Valhalla for Shamanic Tukish people.
  • Log #3544 - by Petr Novak on Apr 09, 2003
    Hi! Anybody has some information about Marble rib on Khan Tengri? - links, contacts ... Thanks a lot!
  • Log #3545 - by Christian Walter on Jan 30, 2003
    Many climbers but only a few reached summit. Strong and icy wind on the ridge. Fixed ropes sometimes in bad condition - better not to use them. Expedition report available at www.
  • Log #3546 - by Mark Hale on Apr 03, 2002
    After traversing Marble Wall with much difficulty due to terrible weather and running out of food we made it to base camp for Khan Tengri. The weather was still bad and I assumed the summit was out...
  • Log #3547 - by Neil Griffiths on Mar 22, 2002
    Ascended from col in 8hrs. 4hrs back to col. Simon Frost and Paul? also summitted same day. Climbing alonside a NZ lad and a Californian bloke.
  • Log #3548 - by Lindholm on Nov 22, 2001
    "Crazy Kid" here. I am planning to climb Khan Tengri 'solo' in 2003 making it a memorial climb for Kazakhstani climber Anatoli Boukreev -one of my rowmodels. all information needed. please...
  • Log #3549 - by Manuel Salazar Rincon on Nov 03, 2001
    Escale en solitario la ruta normal de la vertiente norte. Hice la escalada sin apoyo de CB tardando nueve dias en alcanzar la cumbre desde que sali del CB.De estos nueve dias cuatro los perdi por...
  • Log #3550 - by Simon Yates on Oct 24, 2001
    In 1991 I was in a party making the first British ascents of the peak. Climbed the S.W. ridge from the South Inylchek Glacier. All my subsequent ascents were made guiding clients up the S.
  • Log #3551 - by Mark Hale on Apr 20, 2001
    I am booked on an expedition to Khan Tengri in late July/August 2001 via the West Rib, traversing Peak Chapaev. I am interested to hear of others who have completed a similar expedition and would...
  • Log #3552 - by Heli Nordensterd on Feb 23, 2001
    Summer of 1998.Had to turn back at 6000 m because of bad weather. Better luck next time!
  • Log #3553 - by Jorian Kippax, Sean Waters on Feb 18, 2001
    Beaut mountain, ascent via the N. Enylchek glacier. Originally planned as an acclimatization climb prior to Pik Pobeda, but discouraged by persistant winds at altitude. Climbed 1st ascent of Pik...
  • Log #3554 - by Adam Bielecki on Jan 31, 2001
    I climbed it from N side by clasic route. I'm the youngest person on the top (I'm 17 years old) I climbed it solo in alpine style.
  • Log #3556 - by Rob Leach on Sep 26, 2000
    Hi, I'm planning to attempt Khan Tengri in September 2001. Can anyone tell me what conditions are like at that time of the year? Regards...Rob
  • Log #3557 - by Bartek Walczak on Apr 16, 2000
    Hi, Im looking for any informations about Marble Rib: schemes or stories of climbers which tried it before, or just any contacts.
  • Log #3558 - by Serg Komarov on Apr 15, 2000
    ...the second ascention on peak Khan-Tengri(first -1997). It would be possible to speak about a solo ascention, if not 20 persons whom I have met on a route. Weather in this season was not stable and...
  • Log #3559 - by Joronen Harri on Oct 23, 1999
    Best aclimatized in beautiful weather I reached the summit at 10:14 a.m. (in 5:52 hours from camp 3) where I met one other guy (Russian?) with whom we chanced cameras and took couple of photos.
  • Log #3560 - by Nurettin ^Vzcan on Oct 19, 1999
    Hi, I wanna climb to Khan Tengri from north this summer and I need every kind of info. Especially wanna learn which company is the cheapest... Urgent.. Best Wishes everybody
  • Log #3561 - by Dana Melville on Sep 20, 1999
    Got a late start from the saddle at 5800 meters and, as 4 of us started together, things went relatively slow when we hit the fixed ropes. Luckly, 2 of our group called it quits by 6400 meters and...
  • Log #3562 - by steve graepel on Aug 31, 1999
    I summitted with Dmitriy Chumakov and Vasili Pivtsov, of the Kazak Mountain School, in white out conditions. The summit pyramid is littered with knotted and frayed ropes on the south col route....
  • Log #3563 - by arnaud temme on July 31, 1999
    We, a three person Dutch team, climbing from the north, stopped our attempts at July 16, after only ten days of climbing. During the descent of camp 2 (5500 m ) our best friend Laurent Bonhomme died...
  • Log #3565 - by Hartmut Bielefeldt on Dec 18, 1998
    The weather ***always*** is awful in this region. Everybody who goes there should be prepared to have snowfall at least once every day. No weather forecast, and no predictions at all about the...
  • Log #3566 - by Borislav Dimitrov on Nov 30, 1998
    The weather was awfull,for me person with more than 60 climbs in Asia(including 8x 8000m) was difficult. Bad luck!