A North Cascades classic, climbed frequently in one day, although two days is more normal, since there is over 6000 feet of elevation gain.
"Eldorado Peak is one of the grand summits in the North Cascades. It is of colossal size and has an individual aloofness above the rivalry of adjacent peaks and ridges; its W flank features a dramatic relief of 6400 ft in 2 mi. from Marble Creek valley. The eye will pick out the glacially sculptured pyramid of Eldorado as far away as the highway at Rockport State Park. Crowned by ice, the peak should have the sobriquet "Queen of the Cascade River." The name Eldorado comes from a mining claim N of Gilbert's cabin." - excerpted from Fred Beckey's "Cascade Alpine Guide."
The primary route to the summit is via the Eldorado Glacier either by Eldorado Creek or Sibley Creek Trail and then follow the East Ridge to the summit. Ice axe and crampons required. First ascent by Donald Blair, Norval Grigg, Arthur Wilson, and Art Winder on 8/27/1933.
Refer to Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 2, for a complete list of all the established routes on Eldorado Peak.
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1933|
|First successful climber(s):||Donald Blair, Norval Grigg, Arthur Wilson, Art Winder|
|Nearest major airport:||SeaTac|
Thanks to Tom Breit for adding this peak.
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 5 trip reports for Eldorado Peak.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #20562 - by Lisa Doubet on Dec 29, 2006Most people know this mountain for its distinctive, knife-like summit snow arete. Like many Cascade Peaks, El Dorado is protected by grueling approaches, sardonically called the "crux of the climb"...
- Log #16199 - by Bob, Cindy, Mike on Aug 30, 2003They are right the approach is nothing to sneeze at. It all starts with the log crossing. Cindy says don't hesitate or look down. The views are great and the other local climbers were very helpfull...
- Log #16200 - by Meagan McGrath on Aug 25, 2002Whew! A really steep hike during the forested approach. Be mentally prepared for a strong effort if you are carrying gear for 4 days on the mountain...otherwise, an excellent beginner's climb and...
- Log #16201 - by Tom Breit on Aug 14, 2001Did it as a one-day climb with Russ Stevenson. I thought we were being pretty hard, until we met up with another group of about ten people who were also doing it in a day. The summmit knife-edge is...
- Log #16202 - by Bill Simpkins on May 24, 2001Steep approach. Good snow in the early morning, very wet after that. Summit ridge was nice. Two days with heavy packs.