Featured photo of Fay

Named for American Mountaineer Charles Fay. The north face was first climbed by Urs Kallen (1968).

In summer the classic climb is via the Perren or Schiesser routes. This requires some technical work in negotiating the rock bands above Moraine Lake and then glacier travel. Winter access involves crossing some avalanche paths.

The Neil Colgan hut serves as a base in both summer and winter, located in a col between Mts. Little and Bowlen it is the highest permanent, habitable structure in Canada.

Elevation (feet): 10,610
Elevation (meters): 3,234
Continent: North America
Country: Canada
Range/Region: Canadian Rockies
Province: Alberta/British Columbia
Latitude: 51.297457
Longitude: -116.163597
Difficulty: Technical Climb
Best months for climbing: Jul, Aug
Year first climbed: 1904
First successful climber(s): Gertrude Benham, Christian Kaufmann (Guide)
Nearest major airport: Calgary
Convenient Center: Lake Louise

Thanks to Richard Nelson for adding this peak.

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

There are 3 trip reports for Fay.

Select any entry from the list below:

  • Log #16938 - by Rene Boisselle on Nov 29, 2003
    Did a new route on the North Face. Its the rock buttress to the right of the Chouinard Route. Two pitches of 50 degree (at the most) ice and 8 pitches of rock, about 5.6. This new route has been...
  • Log #16939 - by Rob Davidson on Aug 16, 2003
    An excellent ice climb up the central ice bulge with Tom McMahon and John Ionescu. Well worth the approach.
  • Log #16940 - by Richard Nelson on Dec 01, 2001
    Via the Perren route from Moraine Lake took 7 hours to the Neil Colgan hut. The next day we left very early for the accent of Mt. Fay to make the return travel across the glacier before the sun...