Middle Teton

Elevation (feet): 12,804
Elevation (meters): 3,903
Continent: North America
Country: United States
Range/Region: Teton Range - Yellowstone Area
State: Wyoming
Latitude: 43.73
Longitude: -110.811
Difficulty: Technical Climb
Best months for climbing: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Year first climbed: 1923
First successful climber(s): Albert Ellingwood, Miss E. Davis, (ascended earlier by natives but unrecoreded)
Nearest major airport: Jackson, Wyoming
Convenient Center: Jackson, Wyoming

The Middle Teton is one of the three central peaks of the Teton range. As the name implies, it is located in the middle of the three north-south aligned peaks, between Grand Teton and South Teton. One of the Middle Teton's distinguishing characteristics is a black diabase fissure that climbs its east face.

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

There are 46 trip reports for Middle Teton.

Select any entry from the list below:

  • Log #21704 - by AustinHanson on July 03, 2009
    Beautiful ascent with several hours of rock hopping, scrambling, and crossing snow fields.
  • Log #20869 - by Phillip West on July 11, 2007
    Great climb, my first over 10,000 feet. Took the southwest couloir route. First to the top that day. Didn't encounter much snow, only a few minor snowfields.
  • Log #19708 - by Jeff F. on July 05, 2006
    Left Lupine Meadows TH at 4:10am and summited at 10:20am Even on the 4th of July we still needed an axe and crampons for some steep snow couloirs. Ascended via the SW Couloir. Above the saddle...
  • Log #19084 - by Logan Pierson on Feb 14, 2006
    Great one day summit, one very long, tough day but worth the pain for the incredible view!
  • Log #5564 - by John Jolly on Aug 25, 2004
    I climbed this with my now-deceased friend Leo Geary while on a trans-US bike trip with him and Teresa Brown. Leo spent the early part of the morning talking me into going, and then (perhaps 9:30...
  • Log #5563 - by Miles McCart on Aug 24, 2004
    Second year in a row to summit the Middle Teton for me. Did it in one long day from the the lupine meadows parking lot. 10 1/2 hours round trip. Did the SW coulior route.
  • Log #5561 - by Akos Melecske & Marek Voros on Aug 22, 2004
    Gourgeous hike!! It seems harder from the bottom but anyone with reasonable hiking skills can make it. We are looking forward to go there again, especially to pick Marek's camera up:))) "Per...
  • Log #5565 - by Jim Dart on May 21, 2004
    Group of four from Texas. Left Meadows base camp at 3:30AM. Stopped a lot to enjoy the vistas and refill water. Made the summit at 11:15.
  • Log #5567 - by Miles McCart on May 20, 2004
    Dit the Southwest Coulior in a day. 13 1/2 hour round trip. Reasonably easy route up the Middle. Some of the snow fields that are crossed on the way up and down present probably the only real danger.
  • Log #5568 - by Lee Welton on Dec 17, 2003
    This was my first summit in the Tetons, and I have been hooked ever since. I strongly reccomend taking a helmet due to the large amounts of loose scree and rocks that fall.
  • Log #5569 - by Mike Roche on Nov 27, 2003
    I climbed the Dike Route on the Middle Teton back in 1985 during a summer geology course. It is a classic route, but makes for a very long day from the trail. As I recall, we got to the trailhead at...
  • Log #5570 - by Alan Ellis on Sep 22, 2003
    Beautiful day up the Southwest Couloir. Make sure you continue to the furthest saddle before turning southwest into the couloir. There are several false saddles and couloirs. You will know you are at...
  • Log #5571 - by Chris on Sep 04, 2003
    A beautiful mountain with great position in a wonderful range. It's too bad the climbing isn't all like the upper portion of the couloir (steeper and more solid). We kicked steps up the snow in the...
  • Log #5572 - by Peter & Ben Alexander on Aug 28, 2003
    Peter, Linda & Ben Alexander summitted with Exum guide Susan Detweiler. We camped in S. Fork, Garnet Canyon, did the standard SW Couloir route the next day (mostly a messy 4th class scramble up a...
  • Log #5573 - by Wlie Jones (Sponsord by Cruci Elements) on July 13, 2003
    Nothing like some leaf and some yoga up on the Middle South Saddle. Can't wait for Grand. Peace Love & Truth.
  • Log #5574 - by Dan, Karen, David & Emily Brienzo on July 12, 2003
    Tried doing the Southwest route in one day last year since we weren't able to get a camping permit in the Meadows. Got to just below the saddle and had to turn around and go back down. The kids were...
  • Log #5575 - by Matt Loscalzo on Oct 18, 2002
    My most recent birthday gift to myself. I would rather climb than do anything else on my birthday. Been successful at this for the the past four years, and this year was no exception. Like the other...
  • Log #5576 - by Margo Lasky on Sep 01, 2002
    One day from lupine parking lot. Trevor's first big mountain. Second day of good weather in the last week or so. Nice view from the top, windy, but cool temps made for great hiking conditions.
  • Log #5577 - by Dawn Fullmer on Aug 06, 2002
    25 years ago I climbed The Grand Teton. In this ... my 40th year of life ... I was the slowest part of the group of 13 .
  • Log #5578 - by Simone Christensen on Aug 05, 2002
    Wow! It was so windy that people were getting blown over. But it was worth it.
  • Log #5579 - by leland christensen on Aug 05, 2002
    Huge winds on this day. Several people had already turned back upon reaching the saddle prior to our arrival. Thirteen in our party, seven summited. Our theme was "Rock Star" and with ages...
  • Log #5580 - by Ben Urwin on July 18, 2002
    Amazing summit! Very exposed, unbelievable views!
  • Log #5581 - by Ryland Moore on May 14, 2002
    Did South and Middle Teton in a day from parking lot to parking lot
  • Log #5582 - by David Cook on Feb 28, 2002
    My sister and I are living proof that any out of shape idiot can do this climb in one day. As long as they are willing to be reported as lost to the ranger station by their spouse and parents and be...
  • Log #5583 - by Cindy & Bob Kurziak on Feb 27, 2002
    Summited from the lower sadle via a wandering route with Exum guide Bill Dyer. Decent via southwest coulier. Great veiws. Many route choices.
  • Log #5584 - by Alan Robinson on Feb 27, 2002
    tough for a one day hike but well worth it!!
  • Log #5585 - by Jim on Sep 06, 2001
    A very inspirational summit in my climbing career. It was my first experience with rock climbing and started a hobby for me that has spanned 4 years and counting. Thanks to that climb I now...
  • Log #5586 - by Erich Bergmann on Aug 26, 2001
    Start early.
  • Log #5588 - by Justin Turcotte on July 06, 2001
    don't let the Marmetits eat your food in the medow
  • Log #5589 - by Tim Rosenberry on July 05, 2001
    The view from the top of the peak with the Alaska Basin and Jackson Hole Valley below is amazing. The view of the Grand Teton is especially impressive and makes the Middle a recommended climb before...
  • Log #5590 - by brandon O'Connor on Jan 08, 2001
    great view. i hpoe to climb it again. that same day i climbed the south teton also.i'm 14, i climbed it with my dad, jesse O'Connor.
  • Log #5591 - by Paul Tikusis on Jan 07, 2001
    don't climb the peak without proper shoes. i had a burnt out pair of timberlands on and i and almost lost my footing on snow fields. we summited the peak without a ice axes. we climbed the peak from...
  • Log #5592 - by George M. McKee III on Oct 22, 2000
    Camped at the canyon just because I have never camped there, I suggest camping far up in the canyon where the beauty is maximized. I brought rope just in case and didn't need it, but it was in the...
  • Log #5593 - by Baron Petya on Oct 21, 2000
    We climbed it from the south. We had a little fresh powder. During the descent I slided down on a steep ice slope because of the bad, melting ice conditions.
  • Log #5594 - by Thomas S. Burton on Sep 06, 2000
    Summited via the NW coulour along with the Grand Teton from Lupine Meadows (along with T. Calton and E. Johnson). The route was part snow and part ice, a nice alpine route.
  • Log #5595 - by Tyler White on Mar 14, 2000
    Summited via Glacier route in a group of four. Classic alpine route and had great weather. I'd recommend it to anyone starting or just in the mood for a good climb.
  • Log #5596 - by Matt Peterson on Mar 11, 2000
    "Ascended SW Coulier from the saddle. No visibility and lots of snow. Beautiful climb though."
  • Log #5597 - by Alan Kane on Feb 23, 2000
    Bivied in south fork, soloed middle and south same day, next day up Disappointment Pk via descent gully near Petzold Caves, and then descended to Amphitheatre Lk and the valley. Fine way to spend 2...
  • Log #5598 - by Juston on Dec 14, 1999
    Soloed from lower saddle. Had snow this day and got out Grand Summit day pushed back one. Excellent climb with beautiful views and lots of good exposure.
  • Log #5599 - by mickey dye on Sep 07, 1999
    Snowpack from just below the meadows on up. Camped in the South Fork zone, climbing South Teton the first day (easy jaunt) and Middle the second. From the saddle on up it was an icy stairmaster from...
  • Log #5600 - by Ton Biesemaat on Aug 10, 1999
    Even in 1986 this was I think besides Anchorage or Fairbainks the most crowded place in Alaska. Climbed the hill without any problems. Now I am older and not wiser I know there are lots of mountains...
  • Log #5601 - by Gregory Frux on Dec 31, 1998
    Partner was Matt Powell. Climbed with experienced local friends who knew the route and climbed from the valley floor and back (via South Teton) in one day. Route from Meadow to summit was enough for...
  • Log #5602 - by Steve Weliver on Dec 07, 1998
    Excellent route - the SW Col. Bring a good hiking pole or Black Diamond's new pole with the ice axe attachment. Though most negotiate the snow fields without one I borrowed a pole from a friendly...
  • Log #5603 - by Jonathan Cardella on Nov 02, 1998
    The glacier that usually extends to the top of the colouir ended about 1,500 ft from the summit and small waterfalls which offered some dirty climbing remained. I traversed left onto what might be...
  • Log #5604 - by Eric Parker on Oct 23, 1998
    Solo ascent via Southwest Couloir. Beautiful day, virtually cloudless, no wind just occasional breeze. Imagine that! Might as well top out the South while you're up there.
  • Log #5605 - by Matt Powell on Sep 26, 1998
    Ascended via Southwest Couloir, visibility near zero with snow and whiteout conditions. Camped in the Meadows. Fantastic setting!