Aconcagua Trip Report (#20325)

  • Signed By: Hans Eggink
  • Date submitted: September 27, 2006
  • Number of People Encountered:0-10 people
  • Recommend to a Friend: Highly

After extensive research we decided to climb Aconcagua in the beginning of November, both in 1999 and 2005. We took the Routa Normal via Confluencia, Plaza de Mulas (hotel Refugio), Camp Canada, Nido de Condores and Berlin. In 1999, five of the six members reached Berlin with no great difficulties. Four attempted the summit and only one actually reached the 6962m peak.

Personally, I stranded at the end of the Traverse just before entering the Canaletta at approx. 6400m due to lack of nutrition. Being a novice in high altitudes this was defenitely a learning experience. The weather was phenominal troughout the expedition. No snow up to Canada.

Our guides were Diego Magaldi and Craig Scott from Meridies.

In 2005 we left Holand with five team members, three were in the previous expedition. My wife and our team physician were our new additions.

We took the same route and itenerary. Due to snow and bad weather we had two days of delay going up. Four reached Berlin and three left for the summit on 22nd of November. Due to violent winds and severe cold my wife had to return to Berlin at an altitude of 6250m. I joined her as the second guide had already left with the other team member who was faster than us. The guide and the our physician stranded at 6600m on the Canaletta due to early frostbite and signs of hypothermia.

We al returned safely in Berlin. During the following night and day we were pinned down at Berlin due to a severe storm. Eleven people cramped in the little hut for 24 hours. All went down safely inspite frostbitten toes and a progressive pulmonary oedema with one of the members. No perminent damage to either of the members. On this expedition Diego Magaldi joined us again as lead guide.

With our first child on the way I'm not sure if I'm going to undertake a third attempt at Aconcagua but never say never.

A full 30 page report, in Dutch, of our first attempt in 1999 can be obtained if you drop me a mail.

Regards, Hans Eggink.

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