North Palisade

North Palisade Trip Report (#5867)

After hikng up into the U-Notch on several previous visits when we climbed Mt. Sill and other peaks, Gene Ray and I dicided to climb the N. Palisade. In the early morning light we passed by the start of the shelf for the easier route and continued several hundred feet too high. At a similar steep chute we decided to use the hardware we always carried for safety but rarely used to crawl up this chute. Half way up it split and we took the right branch- probably a mistake- because we ran into an overhang. We used a bunch of pitins to swing out under and over it. Having not carried a harness, after setting each piton, I had had to retreat to a rest spot to relieve the pressure of the rope around my waste. This took a lot of time. A dense cloud hit the summit at the same time we did and coated everyhing with ice. We built a ring of rocks like a bird's nest on the narrow sloping ledge just above the notch at the top of the chute of the normalroute. We bivouaced for the night and come morning, waited for a while for the warming air to melt the frost to ease our descent by the normal route.

North Palisade Trip Report Index