Putha Hiunchuli

Putha Hiunchuli Trip Report (#17656)

  • Signed By: David Lim
  • Date submitted: September 18, 2002

This is a rarely climbed peak with two distinct faces: a steep, technical ridge climb pioneered by the Japanese in the early 70s and a much easier snow climb up the northern flanks where the average angle does not exceed 35degrees. We made the (possibly ) fourth ascent of the northwest/east face of thismountain; travelling from Dunai and than up the Barbung Khola. The terrain is rugged and until 1996, few expeditions had been there. We had bad weather for days prior to reaching basecamp. After the storm, we placed three higher camps at 5100m, 5900m and 6300m before making a summit bid. In all, three of our five members, including myself , summitted together with two climbing sherpas. This took about 11 - 14 days after we reached basecamp. Three days after we left, storms swept in again. The peak can be done with a 6300m peak called Kang Tokal which lies in the same glacial basin. A separate permit is required. Currently, the entire area is a Maoist rebel infested area with the grass airstrips at Dunai and Juphal seeing pitched battles between security forces and the rebels.

Besides these risks, the usual high mountain and glaciated risks are present.After heavy snow, there is moderate risks of avalanche.

Putha Hiunchuli Trip Report Index