Mount Yamnuska

Mount Yamnuska Trip Report (#19163)

  • Signed By: Dow Williams
  • Date submitted: February 15, 2006
  • Number of People Encountered:0-10 people
  • Recommend to a Friend: Highly

I have climbed Yam many times, but chose to add my Easy Street beta as a summit log at Peakware.

Once you make the hump to the base of the wall, Easy Street is one of several variations towards the west end of Yamnuska. It shares the same start as Windy Slabs and I have marked a photo of the bottom portion of the route at dowclimbing.com. After 5 pitches of Easy Street which takes you to BBQ Ledge, you can finish via one of the "West End Finishes." Below I describe the more challenging 5.9 layback to the right, but other options from 5.6 to 5.8 exist.

Begin at the right-hand side of a pillar about 40 meters left and slightly downhill of the ramp at the start of "Unnamed". Two Pitons near the bottom mark the route.

1st Pitch- 25 meters- Climb the right side of the pillar to its top where you will find one bolt and two pitons.

2nd Pitch- 50 meters- Traverse left past a piton into a small bay (pitons). Cross the bay and climb an easy ramp to a large belay ledge with a bolt. Step down and across a small gully (piton) and up to a clean ledge. Climb the slabby wall above toward King's Chimney. Once on the highest ledge between that route and Unnamed, move up the chimney of King's Chimney to a two-bolt belay on the left.

3rd/4th Pitch- 65 meters- We had a 70 meter rope and combined these two pitches. Climb up a short distance above the belay and step left to a small ledge. Follow solid cracks and slabs immediately left of King's Chimney to a fixed piton. Move left from the piton to another groove that leads up past a second piton to a two-bolt belay. If you have a long enough rope, traverse left to a groove and climb above to a solid ledge. Belay at a piton with a good cam crack to the right.

5th Pitch- 30 meters- Move left past a piton for about 5 meters, then step right across a steep, blocky wall and follow good cracks in the corner above to the large platform on the skyline which is BBQ Ledge (bolts).

6th Pitch- 55 meters- Proceed directly above for several moves and then traverse slightly left into a gully. Follow the layback crack above you to the right using primarily cams. This is not a true layback, but rather consists of several balancing moves switching back and forth. The crux on this pitch is about 2/3rds of the way up.

Return via the scramble traverse descent which is left to the col and subsequent scree trail.

Mount Yamnuska Trip Report Index