Mount Hector

Mount Hector Trip Report (#22107)

  • Signed By: Toyler
  • Date submitted: November 20, 2010
  • Date(s) climbed: August 28, 2010
  • Number of People Encountered:0-10 people
  • Recommend to a Friend: Highly

Myself and my friend Dave decided to take on Mount Hector as a replacement to the normal route up Mount Temple. As Dave stated to me the South-West face of Temple appeared boring to him, so I suggested Mount Hector though I had never attempt an 11,000 footer nor an alpine climb.

We meet two Calgarians who set out for the scramble on little Hector prior to our departure. We actually hiked to Hector's pass which was far too long of an approach and it ate up a lot of time. We lunched at the toe of the glacier and shortly after stepping on the glacier we roped up. The glacier has some big crevasses and my first look at an ice bridge was intimidating; however, Dave was game and so was I. After crossing two ice bridges lower on the glacier the weather cooperated (not hot, and cloud cover but no rain).

later up the glacier we switched back then began to front point up a steep section, all new to me especially in my scrambling boots and light weight crampons not meant for front pointing. We gained the col between the summit and the false summit to our left (south). From the col the final 50 metres or so is an icy rock scramble with lots of exposure. We faced two crux's in my (under-educated/under-experienced) opinion. The first almost immediately after beginning to scramble up the icy rock and the second just under the summit. Both were exposed, straight vertical and each had sections of icy rock that crumbled in your hands for about 4 metres each. That beginning said the climb up was easy compared to the downclimb. Both sections required care as the mentioned exposure and the top section just below the summit was a definate death fall had a slip occurred.

Dave's GPS stated the elevation at 3413 with an accuarcy to 6 metres which is slightly higher than Topo maps give Mount Hector.

I will be learning more glacier travel safety, and crevasse rescue before my next 11,000er by no means is this my last, but the first and a very enjoyable, adrenaline pumping trip. Highly recommended for a beginning apline climb, for those wanting more than just a scramble.

Mount Hector Trip Report Index