|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Nearest major airport:||Calgary International|
Thanks to Dow Williams for adding this peak.
Mount Cory is located just to the northwest of Banff. Along with its neighbor Edith, Cory is a popular ascent in Banff National Park, one of four connecting national parks in the heart of the Canadian Rockies. Two notable features distinguish Cory Mountain, a 300 meter vertical groove on its southwest face and a gaping, dark cave, also on the southwestern flank known as “Hole in the Wall”.
Cory has a variety of routes listed below including a standard scramble. The lower flanks offer several technically difficult sport climb routes on firm limestone, but none universally published as of this date.
Getting There- The Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from Calgary. Bypass the Banff town exits and take the Bow Valley Parkway exit. Turn right and follow the scenic parkway (90% of the time there are bull elk visible from the road) for 1.9 km. Pull off to the right on a small shoulder good for two to three vehicles. It is imperative that you are at the right spot, as I went up the wrong rib on this mountain years ago and was forced to redo this route in 2005 to complete it. There are several large ribs coming down from Mount Cory. You want the eastern most rib which is identified as light-colored shaley cliffs with a deep ravine to its right.
Red Tape- You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the camping section below. Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the park.
This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your person. We have had an increase in activity so far in 2005.
When To Climb- If you want a dry scramble objective, it is best to climb Mount Cory from June through September. However, I climbed Cory in March with snowshoes, crampons and alpine ax and had a solid experience, although this does make for a more challenging objective. There are no published or obvious backcountry ski routes on the mountain. There are small ice climbing routes located between Mount Cory and Edith.
Camping- You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your camping permit. The closest camping is back in the town site of Banff, or if you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, you can camp further down the Bow Valley Parkway at , Johnston Canyon Resort and Campground . Further down the Parkway is the Castle Mountain Hostel located at Castle junction.
Mountain Conditions- Banff National Park’s website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel.
The Rocky Mountains of Canada South Book lists 6 routes:
1) South Ridge - Scramble
2) SW Chimney - II 5.4
3) SW Face (Moss Crack) - II F6
4) SW Face (Clockwork Orange) - 300 m - III 5.5
5) SW Face (right of Clockwork Orange) - up to 5.8
6) S Ridge above 1A Highway - short 3 pitch route with several difficult fifth class moves
Detailed route information available at dowclimbing.com
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 2 trip reports for Mount Cory.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #19088 - by Dow Williams on Feb 14, 2006I have to admit that this was actually my 3rd attempt at Cory. The first, the wife, dog and I went up the wrong rib, one west of the correct rib that leads to the summit ridge. The second attempt was...
- Log #18578 - by
Tim L. Helmer on Oct 19, 2003Mount Cory stands near Banff Alberta in the Canadian Rockies. I'll have to go back so I can bag the other peak. It's only a short way across a connecting ridge. The other summit is also cairned and...