Mount Temple

Mount Temple Trip Report (#7356)

  • Signed By: Mathieu Bolullo
  • Date submitted: August 02, 2000
  • Date(s) climbed: 7 AM on July 21st 2000 (east ridge)

Took 28 hours to reach the summit. We started from the parking lot at 3:30 AM onjuly 20th. We climbed the Aemmer Couloir wich proved to be interesting. Lots of avi danger when the sun hits the slope (sunrise). we brewed on top of the couloir to fill our water bottles. Then we started the long traverse to reach the Big Step start under very bad snow conditions. We made running belays most of the time and found psychological protection on little rock outcrops along the way. We stepped into the big amphitheatre and traversed until below the black towers always keeping close to the rock wall and gainin elevation when possible. The gully leading up to the summit glacier was hard to find and turned out to be very wet at the start (little waterfall). first 2 pitches were on rock (at most 5.4 with a little ice). All the fixed gear must have been under the snow since we did not find any. Three more pitches of climbing (ice screws a good idea) brought us toa rocky terrace that borders the summit glacier. It was 10 PM by then. We hurried on the snow slopes but we decided to stop at 12:30 AM exhausted. We downclimbed back and got back below a big serac wall. We dug a little alcove with axes, brewed and shivered all night, sitting on our packs. We got started at 4:30 AM, crossed the Bergshrund again and climbed the slope directly uner the summit so we didn't have to stroll on the doubled corniced ridge. The summit was well deserved. It would be better to wait later in the season (mid august) and get a early start with a bivouac at lake Anette. Then a one day ascend can be done if you are fast and fit.

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