Ushba is a beautifully steep mountain with twin peaks, draped in snow and glaciers. It has been called the "Matterhorn of the Caucasus," although Ushba is nearly one thousand feet higher than the Matterhorn (14,688 ft.), and is much more massive. Its second peak (15,407 ft,) is located just northeast of the slightly higher main peak. Ushba's high steep faces and icy ridges have captured the interest of mountaineers for over a century. Despite its remoteness, the mountain received much attention around the turn of the twentieth century, and was climbed by all the obvious routes within a twenty year period after its first ascent. Today there are fifty official routes to the summit. None are easy.
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1903|
|First successful climber(s):||Helbling, Schulze, Reichert, Schuster, Weber, (German party)|
|Nearest major airport:||Moscow, Russia, Kiev, Ukraine, Tbilisi, Georgia|
|Convenient Center:||Mineral'nye Vody, Russia|
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 7 trip reports for Ushba.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #7559 - by
Otarbiy Djanakaitov on Aug 05, 2003Ushba is not a mountain in Georgia, but it is a mountain in the historical land of Karachay-Balkar people in the Caucasus.It is on the border of Georgia(Transcaucasus) and Karachay-Balkar...
- Log #7560 - by Randall Green on July 16, 2001Please send any information you might have regarding the recent tragedy on Ushba. My friend Joe Bensen and his partner, Vano Guledani, have been missing and are presumed dead on Ushba. His mother and...
- Log #7561 - by George Badashvili on May 08, 2001Anyone who wishes to get maps, itinerary descriptions,classifications of mountain routes etc. or to find a guide to climb peaks of central Caucasus, get in touch with us: G. Nikolazde Alpine Club, 3...
- Log #7562 - by Marius Caragea on Mar 03, 2001You may visit our web page to see more photos from the area.
- Log #7563 - by Pawel Karczmarczyk on Nov 15, 2000Hello I have been in Kaukaz 3 time, I heve climb Shara, Kazbek, Gestola... I will climb in Ushba. I need info abaut Ushba.
- Log #7564 - by Charlie Radclyffe on Nov 13, 1999Helped 2 Americans with severe mountain sickness down, on back of snow-cat. Reached the peak at 1pm - amazing views and had a great time with our fantastic local guide, Alexi Kalashnikov.
- Log #7568 - by Cristian Tecu on Jan 21, 1999Although we haven't reach the peak, it was a great experience. Please, watch my site www.opendrum.utt.ro/~ctecu which contains photos and our impressions from the Central Caucasus.