Jof di Montasio Trip Report (#21998)
- Signed By: J. Vranjes
- Date submitted: July 11, 2010
- Number of People Encountered:11-25 people
- Recommend to a Friend: Highly
I climbed Montaz (Jof di Montasio) 2753 m, solo on July 10, 2010, from south side, starting from the (free) car parking at 1500 m below the Riffugio Brazza. Above the Riffugio the path splits twice, in both cases one should take direction to the left and slightly downhill, across the meadows, and then up towards the rock. Close to the mountain wall, the path splits again; I have taken direction to the left (south west), which goes towards the Suringar bivouac (2400 m). In that part the route on the rock and more or less flat, along the steep cliff, with fixed cable at one section only. Some 100 meters before the bivouac, one should go up, to the right, towards the very steep Findenegg Couloir. From here the route is a scramble where one has to be focused and use both hands most of the time, at some places with loose rocks that may be a problem in case of people above you. In my case there was nobody around except alpine goats (one was later mixed with the people, exactly on the summit!).
Started at 6:45 and reached the summit at 11:45, a bit longer than expected and as compared to the south direction via the Pipan ladder, which was my descent direction, with many people around. Essential gear: usual hiking shoes and a helmet. On the descent via the ladder, having a harness and a v-rope is highly recommended.
Note: the crowded 60 meters long Pipan ladder, so attractive to many people, is in fact completely unnecessary on this beautiful mountain. There is a normal climbing route parallel to the ladder, on its east side, where no additional gear is needed.