|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1921|
|First successful climber(s):||Harry Bedal and Nels Skaar|
|Nearest major airport:||Seattle-Tacoma|
Thanks to Ronald James for adding this peak.
Sloan Peak is a distinctive horn-shaped peak in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, and is commonly referred to as the Matterhorn of the Cascades. It's named for James Sloan, a prospector in the area in the 1890's. Sloan is the high point of the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness. From the town of Darrington, travel south on the Mountain Loop Highway 16.3 miles. Turn left on the Sloan Creek Road #49 and follow this road for 4 1/2 miles to the trailhead on your right and a space to park alongside the road. The Sloan Peak Trail (#648) follows an old road for half a mile to a fording of the North Fork Sauk River. After fording the river, the unmaintained trail climbs steeply 4 miles through timber to reach the meadows at the base of Sloan Peak and a good place to camp. The climbing route leads up snow slopes, then traverse south across the Sloan Glacier to a ridge, and then follow a climber's path as it corkscrews up to the summit via easy scrambling (Corkscrew Route). On a clear day, there are great views from the summit all the way north to Baker, east to Glacier Peak, south to Rainier, and west to Three Fingers. The summit also provides a perfect vantage point to see the Monte Cristo group of peaks. First ascent by Harry Bedal and Nels Skaar on 7/30/1921.
Refer to Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 2, for a complete list of all the other established routes on Sloan Peak.
Thanks to Ronald James for this description.