|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1945|
|First successful climber(s):||Fred Beckey, Jack Schwabland|
|Nearest major airport:||Seattle-Tacoma|
Thanks to Ronald James for adding this peak.
The Triplets is located on the southern boundary line of the south unit of North Cascades National Park. This descriptively named breccia rock pinnacle formation is perched high above Cascade Pass, between Mixup Peak and Cascade Peak. The Southeast Peak is the highest of the three crags. The peak's distinctive vertical cleavage is prominently visible from Cascade Pass.
Directions: From Highway 20 at the town of Marblemount, drive to the end of the Cascade River Road and here find the trailhead to Cascade Pass. The trail climbs switchbacks about four miles to Cascade Pass. Cascade Pass has trails heading to all four points of the compass. Take the path that leads south, first traversing heather slopes, cross a gully and continue traversing talus and snowfields occasionally relocating the path as it makes its way to the Cache Glacier. Ascend the glacier to Gunsight Notch. From Gunsight Notch, descend the gully and traverse a mile west along alp slopes below Mixup Peak to reach the east side to climb the final summit. This route is class 4-5 rock, but does require ice axe and crampons for the Cache Glacier. From the summit one has views of Forbidden Peak, Eldorado, Sahale, Buckner, Formidable, Buckindy, Snowking, Johannesburg, and many more. The first ascent was made by the legendary Fred Beckey and companion Jack Schwabland on October 8, 1945 via a more difficult but direct route from Cascade Pass.
Refer to Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 2, for complete approach and route descriptions for the established routes on The Triplets.
Thanks to Ronald James for this description.