The most photographed peak in the US. It's the mountain the Mt. Baker ski resort is actually on. Has a number of routes from the simple (Sulphide Glacier) to the classic (Fisher Chimneys) and one of the "fifty crowded climbs" (Price Glacier.)
Additional text submitted by Tom Nelson, M.D.:
Located approximately six miles to the east of Mount Baker in the North Cascades. Popular routes include the Fisher Chimney's route and the Sulphide Glacier approach.
The mountain is a major glaciated peak with a 500 foot summit pyramid of rock offering an enjoyable mixed alpine ascent. The Sulphide and Crystal glaciers adorning Mount Shuksan's southern slopes include large and spectacular ice falls. The pyramid is a class 3/4 approach.
The summit offers beautiful views of nearby Mount Baker, Glacier Peak, Mount Garibaldi and Mount Rainier nearly 140 miles away.
Refer to Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol. 1, by Potterfield and Nelson for climbing route information.
|Best months for climbing:||May, Jun, Jul, Aug|
|Year first climbed:||Sept 7, 1906|
|First successful climber(s):||Asahel Curtis, W. Montelius Price|
|Nearest major airport:||Vancouver, BC|
|Convenient Center:||Glacier, Washington|
Thanks to Tom Breit for adding this peak.
There are 37 trip reports for Mount Shuksan.
- Log #9411 - by Todd Snell on Aug 03, 2004Climbed via the Sulphide Glacier. Great weather with warm snow conditions - did not need to use crampons. Were able to bivy at about 6200 ft. due to the warm temperatures and low precipitation levels.
- Log #9412 - by Dennis Spurling on July 28, 2004Coming from NH to a place like the Northern Cascades is quite an eye opener! We have some nice "hills" in NH, but nothing like this area! We ascended by the Sulphide Route, and camped at...
- Log #9413 - by Sian Campbell on July 27, 2004Left the Lake Ann carpark at 5am, took us 1.5hrs to reach the lake. Lots of smoke around from fires (south of Baker ridge?) which made sucking in oxygen hard! Managed to get up the first chimney...
- Log #9414 - by Peg LovellFord on July 24, 2004Be prepared for a long scramble up the peak(in later July and a light snow year), especially if you have less experienced climbers. We were very cautious, didn't need to be but worth it with new...
- Log #9415 - by Vinay Siddappa on July 05, 2004spectacular mountain, minimal exposure, pyramid at summit very difficult - use of rope/belay advised.
- Log #9416 - by matt noland on July 05, 2004Climbed Sulphide Glacier route. Summit Pyramid was nice climbing with great views in all directions.
- Log #9417 - by
Simon on Oct 01, 2003Beautiful hanging glaciers. Exciting crevasse jumping!
- Log #9418 - by
Joseph on Sep 14, 2003Went up the Fischer chimmneys route. Took about 10 hours from Lake Ann. Pitched out the summit pyramid, very time consuming, but also very loose. The descent of the actual chimmneys wasn't bad at all...
- Log #9419 - by Peter Just on Aug 08, 2003Joe Abel, Kevin Hogan and I climbed the Fisher Chimneys route with our teacher, Jay Hack, as part of a 24-day mountaineering course with American Alpine Institute. The route was a wonderful mixed...
- Log #9420 - by Jim Rush on July 04, 2003Fisher Chimneys route. Started 04:30 am from Lk. Ann. Summited around 14:30. Got back to camp at 02:00 am.
- Log #9421 - by Thomas Hovind on Feb 15, 2003Both ascents via Fischer chimneys. Conditions of the Upper Curtis glacier in '02 were very broken and cravassed. (In '91, avoided Whinney's Slide by staying on ridge at top of chimneys for several...
- Log #9422 - by
Jens Klubberud on Nov 05, 2001Climbed a new route with Ben Manfredi on Nooksack Tower (which is part of the Shuksan formation). The route is on the "back side" or the east nooksack glacier side of the tower. It climbs...
- Log #9423 - by Dave Roberts on Sep 17, 2001This is a great climb via the sulphide glacier. We spent the first night at a low camp 6-8 hour hike from the trailhead and then moved to a high camp 6400 ft. From the high camp we spent a few days...
- Log #9424 - by Scott Perkins on July 26, 2001Soloed North Face route, fun climbing, great weather, good snow but had to move fast as sun gets on the face pretty early (my Suunto watch died and with it my 1am alarm, I awoke just before sunrise)....
- Log #9425 - by schuyler clark on June 30, 2001topped out via sulphide glacier just as the clouds rolled in below us. my favorite mountain so far. the pyramid was a little tricky, since we started up the wrong couloir. i can't wait to do it again!
- Log #9426 - by Nick Kiss on Mar 19, 2001Summited via the North Face. If anyone wants info to help with their climb, drop me a line. Nick.
- Log #9427 - by Craig Berthiaume on Nov 02, 2000Acsent via Sulphide Glacier. Plenty of good snow in the gully on the summit pyramid. A bit of mixed rock and ice about 50 feet from the summit. Had perfect weather.
- Log #9428 - by
Shaun King on Oct 21, 2000The Price Glacier truely is a classic. Beautifully rugged seracs, and a neat diagonal line to the upper plateau lead to some pleasant climbing on the final rock ridge to the summit. We had perfect...
- Log #9429 - by Evan Sands on Sep 24, 2000Go early in the season.
- Log #9430 - by Thomas Nelson on Aug 30, 2000Summited via the Sulphide Glacier route. Our first day was plagued with snow, rain and near whiteout conditions. The evening prior to our ascent then delivered crystal clear skies. The views of Mount...
- Log #9431 - by Scott Beason on Aug 30, 2000Summitted Mt. Shuksan under EPIC conditions. It was an awesome first time out into alpine mountaineering for me and I can't wait to have a try at Mt. Rainier. Summitted via the Sulphide Glacier.
- Log #9432 - by C.L. Duck on Sep 19, 2000Waited in base camp for good weather for three days after all a summit in a white out is just another summit. the wait was worth it.
- Log #9433 - by Thomas Nelson on Sep 11, 2000"Summited via the Sulphide Glacier route. Our first day was plagued with snow, rain and near whiteout conditions. The evening prior to our ascent then delivered crystal clear skies. The views of...
- Log #9434 - by Audrey on Aug 24, 2000North Face, good snow, glacier is pretty broken up. Alternate rock scramble towards top is loose and probably not recommended. Descent through Fischer Chimneys was beautiful.
- Log #9435 - by
Lane Thomasson on Aug 15, 2000Our nols group crossed the white salmon glacier on sat. aug 5 placing 34 pieces of sno pro and camping just under whinney's slide. the next day i dislocated my knee and had to be evaced but the rest...
- Log #9436 - by Danny Warren on June 17, 2000the top is steep
- Log #9437 - by Chris Mudry on June 17, 2000Climbed the Price Glacier in four days. Lots of ice and rock fall in September (bring a helmet), suggest doing it in June or July. Encountered 3 short pitches of vertical ice climbing to get through...
- Log #9438 - by Christopher J. Thomsen on June 17, 2000When going for the summit try the southeast ridge, instead of the gully, for some great upper 5th class rock and 6 to 7 wonderful pitches. Getting to the summit, via this route, does require rope and...
- Log #9439 - by Bill DeYoung on Oct 05, 1999Terrific weather and easy travel on the glaciers. Lake Ann still completely snowed in. Camped on snow. No problems with route-finding through the Fisher Chimneys.
- Log #9440 - by Lance Weaver on July 20, 1999AWESOME TRIP! Unbelievably perfect blue-sky weather. A relatively expansive mountain. Nice secluded feeling approach. My first glaciated peak that involved glacier travel and rock climbing.
- Log #9441 - by dean Kolnick on June 13, 1999fun, easy rock climbing to the summit...many people on the route tho and falling rocks
- Log #9442 - by Don Gregory on June 08, 1999Beautiful clear weather greated us with fantastic views from the summit pyramid which we had to ourselves. When we woke up the next morning in our Sulphide Glacier camp we had almost no visibility...
- Log #9443 - by Tom Breit on May 26, 1999After a couple of unsuccessful attempts on the overrated Sulphide Glacier route, I finally summited via the Fisher Chimneys route. It's a beautiful climb on a comparatively isolated mountain (on a...
- Log #21132 - by theyogiclimber on Dec 23, 2007We did the Sulphide Glacier route, spending two nights camped on the south edge of the glacier. The summit morning started out clear as a bell, but by the time we reached the summit the cloud deck...
- Log #21317 - by an anonymous user on June 24, 2008Lots of snow - snow started 20 minutes from trailhead. Lost trail on the way up through the woods. Climbed the summit block in the snowy coulouir with ice axe - bit scary. Suitable rappel stations...
- Log #22202 - by cleo weidlich on July 25, 2011I had a six day mountaineering course at Shuksan. A great place to train on glacier crossing. I enjoyed every day of it!
- Log #22376 - by tas on Mar 14, 2013Sulphide Glacier