Dorado Needle is situated roughly one mile north of Eldorado Peak at the head of the Marble Creek Valley in the most intensely glaciated area of North Cascades National Park. Visiting this spectacular area of the park leaves a climber with a sense of the magnificent landscape of steep ridges and pinnacles that were carved by the glaciers of the Eldorado Icecap. While Eldorado Peak dominates the immediate area, Dorado Needle has about 800 feet of topographic prominence and it rises more than 6000 feet above the Marble Creek Valley giving it significant local relief on the southwest aspect. The orthogneiss rock summit has the deeply crevassed McAllister Glacier on the north aspect. The most common approach is the Eldorado Creek route which is the same approach used for Eldorado Peak. Once on the Inspiration Glacier, traverse to the McAllister Glacier via a saddle at Tepeh Towers which are rock pinnacles separating the two glaciers. Necessary gear includes rope, protection, ice axe, crampons, sunscreen, and glacier glasses for the intense dazzling sun's rays reflecting off the white glacial ice.
Refer to Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 2, or Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume 2, by Nelson and Potterfield for information on all the established climbing routes on Dorado Needle.
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug|
|Year first climbed:||1940|
|First successful climber(s):||Lloyd Anderson, Boyer, Gorton|
|Nearest major airport:||Seattle-Tacoma|
Thanks to theyogiclimber for adding this peak.
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
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