One of the most beautiful peaks in the Alps, almost entirely snow and ice with three tremendous buttresses on its north face each rising to three separate peaks fothat form the W-E summit ridge.
Competant glacier travel is required to attain the east end of the summit ridge from the Diavolezza refuge. Care is needed along the summit arêtes where the north face cornices have caused a macabre history of disasters.
About 10-12 hours round trip from Diavolezza refuge or 7-9 hours if aiming for the Marco e'Rosa hut.
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1866|
|First successful climber(s):||K.E.Digby, H.Walker|
|Nearest major airport:||Zurich|
There are 13 trip reports for Piz Palu.
- Log #9695 - by Christine Theodorovics on Jan 04, 2004Was up there with a little, black dog called "Pazzo" who was wearing little mountain boots and small crampons! Great weather! My first 3000er since I arrived in Switzerland!
- Log #9696 - by Hans Wennerström on Jan 05, 2004This was an interesting tour up the "Die Weisse Hölle von Piz Palü" (The white hell of Piz Palü). We went the normal route starting early from the Diavolezza hut. Reaching the summit we turned...
- Log #9697 - by Richard Schollard on July 16, 2003A magnificent day for an ascent.Visibility unlimited,and a great guide,Hansueli Brunner from the Bergsteigerschule in Pontresina.We were relieved to find that the German movie company,which had been...
- Log #9698 - by Michael Reithmeier on Sep 06, 2002Start at 5.30 am from Diavolezza hut, going up on the east side, some parts very steep, but not difficult. "a walk",m as the guide says. arrived at the main summit at 10.
- Log #9699 - by Michele Gusmeroli on Aug 08, 2002Great climb and magnificent tour from Diavolezza to the summit, then west to forca Bellavista and down to Isla Persa and the glacier
- Log #9700 - by Boleslaw Slowikowski on May 06, 2002Climbed it already three times. Each time was uniquly different. Always a strong northerly wind. Always a SUPERB climb.
- Log #9701 - by Hallbjörn Staurset on June 01, 2001Good top to be acclimazed for 4000`ers climb later. Fantastic view to the italian and austrian alp`s.
- Log #9702 - by Gijs Heutink on Mar 27, 2001Very nice day and easy route from Diavolezza Berghaus in approx. 5 hrs, although a bit windy at the top (140 km/h). Ehrenwort und Gratuliere! I love you, baby.
- Log #9703 - by Eric Luyten on July 12, 2000Our party of four left the Marco e Rosa refuge (3609 m) at 06:05 and gained access to the Palu ridge via the Fuorcla Bellavista. We arrived at the Diavolezza station (2980 m) at 12:30, making for a...
- Log #9704 - by Remco Woutersen on Feb 28, 2000We did the northsporn of the east-summit on a beautiful day. This route is not as tough as it looks from the cabin (it's AD+ according to our guidebook), but certainly as beautiful! The rock is...
- Log #9705 - by Stefan Weber on July 23, 1999Up the "Bumiller"-Buttress at the noth face - wow !!!
- Log #9706 - by Hartmut Bielefeldt on July 02, 1999A good alternative to the normal route (AD-) is the east pillar which is mostly rock climbing (III, AD). The URL mentioned below is a trip report of a German Alpine club climb via normal route which...
- Log #22010 - by Christine Theodorovics on July 19, 2010Second time I've climbed that peak - this time from the Bellavista side, traversing all 3 peaks. Great day and great mountain - went down to Diavolezza then.