Gilbert North Peak

Featured photo of Gilbert North Peak

We started from the trailhead at 10:15 and hiked up the Twisp Pass trail. We looked for the “trail” off to the right about 100 yards past the Wilderness sign. There is no trail 100 yards past the 1st Wilderness sign. Explanation to come later. We could see our objective—the false summit of Gilbert, and we could see a good snow filled gully to get there. One problem—we had to go about 300 yards through slide alder, uphill. We went through the slide alder. This was horrendous. It started to rain. I thought, “this is ridiculous!” But then the cloud disappeared within 10 minutes and the temperature rose to 60+ degrees. We headed up the snow filled couloir that has the mine indicated on the USGS map. At the point we were to turn left, but we decided to turn right at about 5600 feet because we wanted to remain on the snow. Basically, we took this gully all the way to the false summit that is directly to the right of the main summit. We were in sun about 80% of the time. The clouds basically stopped about 15 miles to the west of the west of us, but once in a while a “breakaway” cloud would have a 5 minute torrential snowstorm on us while the temperature was in the mid 40’s. We had the rare experience of snow coming down in complete sun. Anyway we went over the false summit and made it to the true summit without any problems. Summit time: 2:15. A small cocoa can with various names were in there. Yes Mike Torok, your name is still in there. We left the summit at 2:30 and traversed the ridge to the North Peak of Gilbert. We were in total sun the whole time. Silver Star was out and so were the Gardners but Liberty Bell was enshrouded with clouds. The Beckey book says to take the south ridge on the North Peak of Gilbert. Forget it. We took the SE face which was full of snow and not steep. We summitted at 5:00 with no problems. One can see highway 20 coming down from Washington Pass right over Kangaroo Pass on this summit. We glissaded back down the SE face to the basin directly below and then went back up the ridge we traversed. We reached the col at 7300 feet and then glissaded down the couloir to the left of point 7640(?). The glissade was 2300 feet in 20 minutes plus we had another 600 feet elevation drop from walking in snow to the Twisp river trail at 4400 feet. We walked the trail out and lo and behold we came to a trail off to the left—the one we were to take on the original way up. About 100 feet further past the sighting of this trail and we came across a SECOND wilderness boundary sign. So much for following directions. This second wilderness boundary sign is about 300 yards in distance from the first wilderness boundary sign. We were back at the car at 7:00. Trip date: 6/5/99

Elevation (feet): 7,917
Elevation (meters): 2,413
Continent: North America
Country: United States
Range/Region: Cascade Range
State: Washington
Latitude: 48.488738
Longitude: -120.60515
Difficulty: Scramble
Best months for climbing: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct
Nearest major airport: Seattle
Convenient Center: Twisp

Thanks to Stefan Feller and theyogiclimber for contributing to these details. (View history)

Trip Reports

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