Peak Chapayev shares its route with those attempting to summit the majestic Khan Tengri. The ascent of Chapayev involves establishing two camps en route, the approach of which is richly rewarded with a vista of tremendous proportions. The higher of these two camps is on a flat plateau at 5,500m; positioned directly beneath the summit of the golden Khan Tengri.
The route up Chapayev is not too technically demanding with the majority of the ascent being on fixed ropes (so make sure you pack an ascender). There are a couple of exposed sections which require mixed ice/rock climbs. Altitude makes for a challenging climb particularly on the lungs but this is soon forgotten with a summit view that is simply breathtaking; a 360º panoramic of the most beautifully jagged peaks & it is far beyond this, as if a mirage, that one can make out the vast nomadic flatlands.
|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug|
|Nearest major airport:||Bishkek|
Thanks to Mich910 for adding this peak.
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
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