Peak located on West side of Lake O`Hara. East side is glaciated to near treeline (Dougherty) but the N-N-E and N-E side are steep with buttresses and walls.
The first ascent party (J.J. McArthur - solo) followed the South-East glacier and ridge starting from Elizabeth Parker hut.
Rock at base of mountain is quartzite but upper third is limestone.
In 1955, D.K. Morrison and J.F. Tarrant climbed the North-East Ridge (5.7). Long and impressive buttress.
In 1980 or 1981, Rob Mitchell and myself climbed a new route, the East Rib. Starting left of a waterfall (or its remains) and right of the upper bowl. Many pitches up to 5.9 on solid quartzite brings one to the upper bassin.
Then, follow the whole Rib on limestone meeting the Tarrant route on top of the Rib (bivy).
Follow last bit of ridge to the top (snow mushrooms may offers serious difficulties to overcome). Descent by normal route (S-E Ridge).
|Best months for climbing:||Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1887|
|First successful climber(s):||J.J. McArthur|
|Nearest major airport:||Calgary|
Thanks to Rene Boisselle for adding this peak.
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
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