Ulugh Muztagh

Ulugh Muztagh Trip Report (#10695)

Summiters:Marko Aho, Jari Ahtola, Antti Menp, and Kimmo Puoskari, all from Finland.

First ascent of Ulugh Muztagh west peak (Muztagh II) at 6925 meters (6934 m as measured by GPS). The approach from Quiemo took 17 days by two Ural 6x6 military trucks. This was also the first ever expedition to reach the west side of the mountain.

BC was at the terminus of Yuilin Glacier, 5140m. ABC at the north side of the glacier at 5470m, CI at the foot of the west ridge at 5700m, CII at the lower shoulder of the WR at 6440m. The climb was quite straightforward snow climb, the last sharp summit pyramid at 40-50 degrees. BC to ABC 2 hours, ABC to CI 4 hours, CI to CII 5 hours, CII to summit 5.5 hours.

Ulugh Muztagh Trip Report Index