Breithorn

Elevation (feet): 13,661
Elevation (meters): 4,164
Continent: Europe
Country: Switzerland/Italy
Range/Region: Pennine Alps
Latitude: 45.939627
Longitude: 7.754101
Difficulty: Basic Snow/Ice Climb
Best months for climbing: Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Year first climbed: 1813
First successful climber(s): Henry Maynard, Joseph-Marie Couttet, Jean Gras, Jean-Baptiste Erin, Jean-Jacques Erin
Nearest major airport: Geneva
Convenient Center: Zermatt

Thanks to David S. Metzler and Marshall Hall for contributing to these details. (View history)

The Breithorn is one of the easiest 4000 meter peak in the Alps. The standard route starts at the Klein Matterhorn tramway station, and climbs 350 meters in 2 km, first across a straightforward glacier plateau and then up a 35 degree snow slope (which can be icy). However, inexperienced or unprepared climbers can come to grief in bad weather or because of cornice dangers on the summit ridge. The traverse of the entire summit crest of the mountain and the ascent of the north ridge (Triftjigrat), both rated AD, are by contrast serious and classic climbs.

The ascent is done as a day tour by the guides of Zermatt.

Thanks to David S. Metzler for this description.

Weather

The following weather information is provided for the nearest supported peak. The weather icons reflect weather conditions from the base of the mountain, while the wind, temperature and humidity reflect conditions at the summit.

Weather by meteoexploration.

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

There are 82 trip reports for Breithorn.

Select any entry from the list below:

  • Log #22482 - by Uwe Dengler on Aug 19, 2014
    Solo ascent via normal route starting from Klein Matterhorn cable car station. No one on the summit by 3 pm when I arrived there. Did not traverse to middle summit of Breithorn (4160 m) due to...
  • Log #22135 - by Caj E Svensson on Feb 09, 20114 Stars
    We, Eva, Caj and Anders, flew in from Sweden, ride by train to Zermatt and then by ski tram to Kleine Matterhorn. Hiked down to the Teodul hut where we stayed over night. It was very cold...
  • Log #21861 - by Koen on Jan 24, 20102 Stars
    From the station on Klein Matterhorn you walk over the ski-pistes and before you know it you are on the summit. From the summit you can go to the bivak hut between Breithorn and Pollux and do Pollux...
  • Log #21742 - by J. Vranjes on Aug 14, 2009
    Breithorn is a magnificent mountain from every perspective. Yet, the vicinity of the lift which brings people from Zermatt up to 3800 m, makes it a very popular destination for tourists. Literally...
  • Log #21734 - by Uwe Dengler on Aug 09, 20093 Stars
    Due to bad weather we climbed the Breithorn on the easy, normal route. Originally our plan was to do a Breithorn traverse. Despite the lack of technical difficulties on the normal route, you have to...
  • Log #21354 - by Herman Mensinga on July 27, 2008
    Starting at 7.00 from the Theodulpass the sky was gradually getting grayer but sight on the Monte Rosa, Matterhorn and other mountains was still possible reaching the summit. While descending clouds...
  • Log #20764 - by Pete Buckley on May 01, 2007
    Breathlessly up a snowy cone, the top of the ridge to my left and then - the sharp white peaks of the Bernese Oberland stood in a line beyond the hazy depths of the Rhone Valley nearly 12000 feet...
  • Log #10774 - by Fred Spicker on Nov 01, 2004
    Ascent via the S. Flank. Tanya's first 4000er - she was 8.
  • Log #10701 - by RON KRATS on Oct 12, 2004
    MOOIE TOCHT, ZEKER INLEIDING TOT VERDERE UITDAGING. MOET MOGELIJK ZIJN OM MET BOARD ERAF TE KOMEN.
  • Log #10702 - by roger gaff on Sep 01, 2004
    Eary Morning ascent of this peak. I enjoyed the view from the summit. On our way from Zermatt to Polluce and Castore Via the very welcoming Ayas Hut with good food and clean accomodation. The Route...
  • Log #10703 - by Roar Jensen on Aug 02, 2004
    Beautiful weather. Walked to the summit from Kleiner Matterhorn. Not difficult.
  • Log #10704 - by Janos Granicz on July 29, 2004
    Agnes Gabor - Istvan Hajagos - Janos Granicz
  • Log #10705 - by Krist0f on July 21, 2004
    An easy 4K Alpine peak (easy by 'normal route'), watch your step while on ice, enjoy beautiful Matterhorn view.
  • Log #10706 - by Tomas Kolacny on July 18, 2004
    I climbed there together with my father. I'm only 12, it was my first 4000. The weather and everything was fantastic.
  • Log #10707 - by Tomas Matteucci on July 12, 2004
    Incredible feeling as it was my first 4000. Fell off skiing and dislocated my shoulder (again!) but it was worth it. The view was grand.
  • Log #10708 - by Ben-Jan van Diggele en Jeroen Korteland on May 27, 2004
    After one night in Zermatt, next day to the summit. Not to difficult to climb, only wen the weather changed for 180%. Left with little cloudy weather, 50 meters below the summit weather changed...
  • Log #10709 - by Mohd Yunus on Mar 19, 2004
    It was a great experience since it's my first 4000er. A bit acclimatisation problem becouse we don't even acclimatised. We've arrived in Zermatt a day earlier and the next day we're on top of...
  • Log #10710 - by snake prisken on Mar 18, 2004
    it was great expirience so close to the sky & you now..... exellent!!!
  • Log #10711 - by Andy Simpson on Mar 02, 2004
    A perfect climb for those wishing to bag a 4000er without too much technical know-how. Locally described as a hiking route which underplays the potential dangers on this mountain. I've been up during...
  • Log #10712 - by Mervyn Ham on Feb 11, 2004
    We summitted from Cervinia. My first 4000m peak. Definately not the last. Go do it! Thanks to our Italian friend Federico for the Wine.
  • Log #10713 - by Brian McBride on Nov 09, 2003
    Good weather that turned to near whiteout. Followed tracks back down the glacier. Nice exposure on the ridge!
  • Log #10714 - by Sarah Yeates on Sep 30, 2003
    Traversed E-W from the Bivi returning to Klein Matterhorn. My first mixed ice/rock route. Was an ace day great weather until the clouds came down towards the end so we could hardly see anything on...
  • Log #10715 - by Paul de Bruyn on Sep 12, 2003
    Summited from the Cervinia after trudging over the pisted ski runs (which was the primary danger) and managed to get to the summit about 1pm avoiding the usual dog show. The weather was threatening...
  • Log #10716 - by Ed Viola on Aug 20, 2003
    The Zermatt guide was quite quick. The way down, crowded; a long line of about 60 climbers maybe from Cervinia. Their cableline starts later. Short time on top but great views.
  • Log #10717 - by Sjoerd Slegtenhorst on July 28, 2003
    We climbed the summit over the pretty exposed ridge from the middle summit to the summit. We descended over the normal route. Nice weather. Beautiful views, but a pretty crowded summit.
  • Log #10718 - by Klaus Tscherrig on July 01, 2003
    As a local mountain guide I offer climbs to all 4000 meter peaks in Switzerland. Have a look at our website and see you soon in the alps!
  • Log #10719 - by Emily Schindler & Laurie Dexter on June 30, 2003
    It was a great mountain to acclimatize ourselves in preparation of our ascent of the Matterhorn two days later. Perfect weather on both summits.
  • Log #10720 - by LINDHOLM on June 19, 2003
    Climbed it in windy conditions via Klein Matterhorn Nice view from the summit my first true 4000+ and what a nice one. very easy but beware of crevasses at the Glacier due to severe sun. did the...
  • Log #10721 - by Paul Massey on June 02, 2003
    Stay roped up all the way back to the Kleinmatterhorn station - the glacier looks sedentary enough but we had a couple of near misses over crevasses on the way down during late afternoon on a hot day.
  • Log #10722 - by Jonny Lonergan on Apr 24, 2003
    Easy first 4000er and acomplishable by any reasonably fit person. Best to have decent knowledge of outdoors and good gear. Go with a guide if unsure in winter as have heard that when the summer snow...
  • Log #10723 - by Nick Swinscoe on Mar 26, 2003
    Climbed with Ike Bainbridge, also of Appleby-in-Westmorland, ably guided by his experienced sister, Kathy Murphy www.chamonix.net/guide/kathy_murphy and her partner, Mark Charlton...
  • Log #10724 - by Antonio Coelho on Oct 21, 2002
    Good acclimatizacion, after that i tried to open a new climbing route in the north face of the Nordend.
  • Log #10725 - by William Bowden on Oct 11, 2002
    What a day out! After years of talking about it I finally ventured out in crampons. Weather looked great as we left with low cloud down the Italian side but soon got worse. By 4000m visibility...
  • Log #10726 - by Markus Lengauer on Sep 10, 2002
    Easy peak. Perfect weather. Some stupid guys still try to walk on the mountain without Steigeisen and Pickel and alone. Shall they fall into a Gletscherspalte for their stupidity....
  • Log #10727 - by mike De Nitto on Aug 21, 2002
    It was a great climb. Well worth the time
  • Log #10730 - by nicole en jim on Aug 11, 2002
    2e 4000-er , geweldig en onbeschrijvelijk mooi goed en helder weer hierna ; weismiess ? castor ? , pollux ?
  • Log #10731 - by Wolfgang on Aug 05, 2002
    Climbed the peak on this wonderful day on the normal route. Only 8 climbers on the peak during the whole day. PERFECT!
  • Log #10732 - by Remco van Reeuwijk on Aug 02, 2002
    It has been exactly ten years ago that i have climbed this mountain. It was my first summit above 4000 meters and it was part of the best mountaineering trip i have ever made. During this trip i...
  • Log #10733 - by Gianfranco Ludovici Francesc Monti on July 19, 2002
    First mountain in training for the Matterhorn. Great view/weather but very busy. Francesca's first climb on Snow. This will always be with us.
  • Log #10734 - by Sergio Camiz on June 09, 2002
    The weather was pretty good, many people was climbing. I was 50 years old and I had no problems in reaching the top. It was my third 4000 mt., the second was reached in 1964!
  • Log #10735 - by Jean Patrice Venne on May 11, 2002
    Journée magnifique quoique température froide (15C)et vent de 75 Km/heure.
  • Log #10736 - by Pacha de Martynoff on Apr 12, 2002
    We have started at 06.00 to do the central & the western summits. Blue sky, but low temperature (-35/-40 Celsius degrees). The final North/East crest gave sensations, then it was so great...
  • Log #10737 - by Steve Day on Jan 11, 2002
    As part of an ISM week, we had planned an ascent of the Matterhorn which unfortunately was out of condition due to excessive snowfall. Plan B was the traverse of the Breithorn from Roccia Nera and...
  • Log #10738 - by Keimo on Nov 26, 2001
    Me and my GF started walking from Kl. Matterhorn on a glorious autumn day towards Breithorn. We had walked for about 5 minutes when my girlfriend stepped thru the snow into a crevasse. This happened...
  • Log #10739 - by Nathan Jacobsen on Nov 26, 2001
    I summited this peak over a year ago with some of my friends from the university of Portland. Great time, great weather, great view from the top!
  • Log #10740 - by Wim Schollaert on Nov 01, 2001
    My first 4000 and a taste of more. Very easy from Testa Grigna over the slopes to the top. Beatifull view on the Matterhorn.
  • Log #10741 - by Steve Côté on Sep 27, 2001
    Le ciel était d un bleu parfait, le soleil brillait de tout ces eclats, environ 0 degré au sommet... la vue était incroyable!!!! faire absolument!
  • Log #10742 - by Stefano Chillini on Aug 22, 2001
    Me, Simona (my wife) and Luigi Gallo started from Plateau Rosa at 9.30 and we reach the peak after 3hrs. The weather was sunny, but very windy. There was a lot of snow, and the crevasses was covered.
  • Log #10743 - by Miguel Angel Martinez on Aug 17, 2001
    We decided to climb this peak in a spare day after gran Paradiso.We started from Plateau Rosa (3450 m), from Cervinia, Italy, because it is at least 700 m . This height is the only effort of a peak...
  • Log #10744 - by Brom on Aug 12, 2001
    we climbed the Triftjigrat on the north face.. wicked stuff on a big face in the middle of the night, starting at 1am from a bivi on a glacier. Then we walked back down to zermatt and got wasted in a...
  • Log #10745 - by Arjen Vader on Aug 09, 2001
    First 4000 m peak, we took the early cable to Kleine Matterhorn at 5:15 (only on a wednesday) and were on the summit very early. Luckily because it turned out te be very hot later on. Easy climb and...
  • Log #10746 - by Andrew Brown on Aug 09, 2001
    Don't waste your money on a guided trip up this mountain. Zermatt Alpin Centre charge you 125.00 SFR for the privilege of climbing this "snowy hill". It is a very easy climb, a lot easier...
  • Log #10747 - by isabel Breyer on Aug 06, 2001
    We did the half travesierung of Breithorn . Great interesting variant to the normal route
  • Log #10748 - by Chandra-Luciano Malorni on Aug 05, 2001
    The view from its top is brilliant. Lots of the most important mountains of the Alps are so near. Monte Rosa, Lyskamm, Castore, Cervino/Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Dom, Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn, Dent...
  • Log #10749 - by Wim Roelants on Aug 05, 2001
    In combination with Castor (starting point: Quintino Sella hut). Long but very nice. The last climb to the Breithorn summit at the end of the day is tiring. Excellent view but too many people.
  • Log #10750 - by Robert Ryan on Aug 05, 2001
    My first 4000er. Great weather, fantastic views. Very easy, apart from the narrow summit ridge requires some concentration.
  • Log #10751 - by Skopas Thanasis on July 30, 2001
    From Klein Matterhorn there is a "path" which go up to the summit in 1 1/2 - 2 hours.The view from 4164 m is excellent and Matterhorn is next to you.But i think that if you want to go up to...
  • Log #10752 - by Thue Pontoppidan on July 27, 2001
    Summited this tourist-peak on a nice windy day from Plateau Rosa (3500m) solo (if you can call it solo with all those people on highway one to the summit). Great view for the effort to get there. ...
  • Log #10753 - by Xavier Dupac on July 23, 2001
    Southwest side from Testa Grigia, solo. It was easy because of much good snow and good weather, but the wind was strong and very cold. Basic snow climb, max steep 45 deg., but can be icy, crevasses.
  • Log #10754 - by Andy Macgeorge on July 18, 2001
    We caught the Cable-car up to the Keine Matterhorn at 9:00. Got there at just before 10:00. Weather was great, very hot, clear skies and no wind. Great. The walk up to the West Summit, 4164m is easy...
  • Log #10755 - by Otto Schapendonk on June 15, 2001
    Climbed it solo in a weekend, the day after I climbed Matterhorn.
  • Log #10756 - by Jon and Richard Dunn on June 14, 2001
    My son, Richard and I, summited the Breithorn on the eighth of August on a glorious, sunny day. Our purpose was to accustom ourselves to using crampons. The views were spectacular. We were able to...
  • Log #10757 - by Jon and Richard Dunn on June 14, 2001
    Our experience in climbing the Breithorn was one of spectacular scenery, perfect weather, and pure enjoyment. We climed the Traverse in order to gain experience climbing rock with crampons, in...
  • Log #10758 - by Maarten Faas on Mar 19, 2001
    With my friends Jan van Ommen en Kees Hagen.
  • Log #10759 - by MMag. phil. Bernhard Fleisch on Dec 22, 2000
    I ascended this easy peak form the top station of the Kleinmatterhorn cable car with my pals Marco Kocker and Rudolf Slanitz. We climbed up the west ridge, went over the top down the east ridge and...
  • Log #10760 - by Marco Borello on Dec 20, 2000
    From Plateau Rosa in about three hours Fabio, Massimo and me arrived to the peak! Very easy and nice view!
  • Log #10761 - by Martijn Ras on Nov 28, 2000
    Easy trip, unforgetable view! Tip: Don't forget to climb the Breithorn Zwillinge (the neighbour) as well.. 2X 4000 in one day...
  • Log #10762 - by Paul Gemoets on Nov 12, 2000
    it was my very first 4000 peak weather was excellent, but snow got weak when coming down don't take the cablelift, but enjoy the views on Matterhorn during the long way up, otherwise it is too...
  • Log #10763 - by MARC DE NAEGEL on Oct 16, 2000
    We were a group of about twenty persons. We managed te climb the top with the whole group. That was our only purpose.
  • Log #10764 - by Tobias Göring on Oct 15, 2000
    We (Ulf, Werner and me) have reached Breithorn by walking from Zermatt station to the top!! So we' re a life form disappearing from this planet(?!?) Follow us and do not support the owners of...
  • Log #10765 - by Hans van Gils on Sep 27, 2000
    Great summit, take care of a good physical condition and equipment
  • Log #10766 - by martintrass on Sep 26, 2000
    Apart from a narrow ridge the route is quite easy. You can avoid the ridge by using leftside uphill.
  • Log #10767 - by martintrass on Sep 26, 2000
    2nd 4000er peak. It is an easy trip unless using the narrow summit ridge. (traverse east-west)
  • Log #10768 - by Hans Strand on Apr 17, 2000
    My very first 4000 peak. Nice weather, nice mountainguide - Herman Petrig - and a fantastic view.
  • Log #10769 - by Alexandre DUMORTIER on Feb 25, 2000
    Started from the top of the Kleine Matterhorn w/ my friend Tuomas and our guide. Weather and visibility were good initially, but changed quite dramatically during the ascent. Reached the summit under...
  • Log #10771 - by Didi Lust on Nov 26, 1999
    I think my friend and i was in the 98th skie saison the first which climbed the breithorn with the skies! there was a very good snow- so it was worth while!
  • Log #10772 - by Geoffrey Dahill on Oct 07, 1999
    Clear Skies, Early start, first to summit( that day), 4260 meters, 104 km/ hr winds, worth it
  • Log #10773 - by Juergen Wein on Sep 22, 1999
    It's very easy und very crowded.
  • Log #10775 - by Oyvind Lind Petersen on Aug 31, 1999
    A perfect place for a nice acclimatization. Looking so impressing and dangerouse from the north, from the south, however, the trip is a 100 minutes nice walk when the weather is OK.
  • Log #10776 - by Andrea Girardi on Aug 23, 1999
    I did the east-west ridge from Roccia Nera to the Breithorn. A very exciting traversee
  • Log #10777 - by Zitha KRAEMER-BAUM on Aug 19, 1999
    This was my very first trip to the mountains and the Breithorn was my very first mountain. I used this trip to find out if I was able to cope with altitude as I intended to trek around the Annapurnas...
  • Log #10778 - by Chmielewski Jacek on Aug 17, 1999
    My first 4000-er (and my wife Grazyna and son Pawel - 14 y. )- very easy from cable car on Klein Matterhorn.