Part of the Massif of Faucigny, it is also called Aguille Grise de Varan to distinguish it from the nearby Aiguille Rouge de Varan.
From the Varan (or Coudray) car parking (about 1100 m.) just above the village of Passy, an easy and winding trail that is accessible by 4x4 leads to a refuge called Chalets de Varan (1620 m.) where it is also possible to spend the night in a dorm or in a small camping. Along the main trail two shortcuts will allow you to leave the large path and reach the chalet faster. From here there is a beautiful view over the Mont Blanc and nearby mountains, while behind the refuge you can see the impressive and rocky Aiguille de Varan and the Pointe de Barmerousse (2210 m.) to the east.
From the refuge a trail (marked by red dots) goes up a grassy slope that soon becomes steeper and stony as you reach the Barmerousse pass (2325 m.). Here you are surrounded by wild rocks and mountains, including the Aiguille Rouge de Varan and Le Sautet.
From the pass go west and up the base of Aiguille de Varan, walking on stones until you reach a short flat stretch, after which get ready for some easy climbing and scrambling.
To reach the summit in fact you’ll first climb through a chimney, and then will have two options: on the left you’ll walk on a ledge and then scramble up an exposed boulder; on the right you’ll pass a second chimney and then go easily up on the rocks. You can also avoid the first chimney and climb instead a short wall to its right.
A final short ridge walk will take you to the summit of Aiguille de Varan at 2544 m, marked by a cairn. A second summit a few meters to the north can be reached by descending a short tract and then going up again along a short rocky incline.
From Aiguille de Varan you can enjoy an even more spectacular view of sharp peaks, including the towering Aiguille Rouge de Varan, and of the Mont Blanc massif.
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Nearest major airport:||Geneva|
Thanks to Agnese for adding this peak.
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
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