Pico de Orizaba

Pico de Orizaba Trip Report (#945)

  • Signed By: Martin
  • Date submitted: January 08, 2003

We got to the town Tlachichuca on Monday Dec 30. What a great little place. The people are very nice. We stayed at Gerardo's Hotel. Double or single rooms, with TV, shower and bathroom. Much better than staying at a barn like Sr. Reyes place, and for about the same price too. Drove to huts on Tuesday, Dec 31. Made our way to mid-camp on Wednesday (at 15,600ft). Got up at 1:30am on Thursday for summit. HERE IS THE IMPORTANT INFO: From the camps, head towards the Sarcofago to get just above it. From there stay to the right to get to the Espinoza de Oro route. We met many teams who took the Standard Rout and had to turn around due to hard and slick ice conditions. One of our team members placed orange flags, you can follow those. The right hand path is easy to find, the way is paved like a sidewalk, the trail of ice is about an inch taller than the surrounding ice. We got to the top at 7:30am and were back to our mid-camp by noon. Rested, broke camp and were back at the huts by 2pm. Weather was perfect, and the ice conditions were great, and sleeping as high as we did was a smart move (more acclimatization, and shorter way to go on summit day). We did not rope up or carry any pro. Needless to say, you must use crampons and ice axe (you can use trekking poles until the ice starts to get steep).

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