|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1864|
|First successful climber(s):||Peter Taugwalder senior and Jules Jacot|
|Nearest major airport:||Geneva/Milano/Zurich|
From Zermatt take the cableway to Kleine Matterhorn - 3800m. From here it takes two hours nice walking on the glacier in south-east direction before the 90 minutes climb begin. The climb is mostly 1 with some parts of 2. Snow to 50 degree. This mountain is more demanding than the nearby mountains Castor and Breithorn because some parts of the climb here are exposed.
A alternative is the Italian way from Mezzalama Hut.
Thanks to Oyvind Lind Petersen for this description.
The following weather information is provided for the nearest supported peak. The weather icons reflect weather conditions from the base of the mountain, while the wind, temperature and humidity reflect conditions at the summit.
Weather by meteoexploration.
NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name
There are 13 trip reports for Pollux.
Select any entry from the list below:
- Log #22158 - by Caj E Svensson on Apr 12, 2011We took a shot at it the day before and turned back at the fixed ropes. After a night's sleep in the nearby hut, Eva and I went all the way up and Anders waited below the rock entrance to the climb....
- Log #21862 - by Koen on Jan 24, 2010Starting from the bivouac hut we climbed Pollux and Castor and went on to the Quintino Sella hut.
- Log #21780 - by Christine Theodorovics on Sep 28, 2009Sometimes it gets quite crowded at the rocky piece before the crest. There is a bit of climbing to do, but all secured by fixed ropes.
- Log #19949 - by Jonathan on July 15, 2006Excellent route, done with guide, Ric Potter from Klein Matterhorn. The glacier approach was interesting with some big crevasses and very soft on return. Wonderful views of Castor and Monte Rosa...
- Log #11346 - by
Alex T Johnson on Nov 27, 2003We started after a stay overnight at the bivacco Giorgio Rossi-Cesare Volante at about 9am at the SW-ridge of Pollux. Very nice summit. We were the only ones on the mountain.
- Log #11347 - by
Todd Fraker on Sep 29, 2003Climbed the SW Ridge in about 7 hours round-trip from the Klein Matterhorn station. A little congestion at the fixed chains, but what a great route!
- Log #11348 - by Janos Granicz on Feb 28, 2002Karoly Barta - Bela Raucsik - Janos Granicz Our route: Mezzalama Hut - Guide Val d' Ayas Hut - Zwillingsjoch (Passo di Verra) - South-East Ridge - Pollux - South-West Face - Guide Val d' Ayas Hut -...
- Log #11349 - by Marco Arata on Nov 21, 2001Nice climb, mixed Rock andGlacier trek.
- Log #11350 - by Andy Macgeorge on July 18, 2001From the Ayes Hut up along the glacier to the South ridge of Pollux. A nice climb on easy rock and snow. Good conditions and well protected from the wind. There are three chains which bring you first...
- Log #11351 - by Eric Schmidt on Apr 09, 2001My first real peak other than Mt. Washington, NH. Now, I'm hooked. Tried to go up on the 7th, but a storm was blowing through so we didn't go.
- Log #11352 - by Kobe Bellinkx on Feb 17, 2000Nice climb, with some bad weather on the way down. Very popular and easy route.
- Log #11353 - by Juergen Wein on Sep 22, 1999One of the twinns. the other one ist the Castor. Done both. Not difficult but nice.
- Log #11354 - by Oyvind Lind Petersen on Sep 07, 1999This was my first alpin peak. Not very difficult. For me it was because I was not used to the attitude or to the exposed rocks. So I stopped the group twice.