Pollux

Elevation (feet): 13,425
Elevation (meters): 4,092
Continent: Europe
Country: Switzerland/Italy
Range/Region: Pennine Alps
Latitude: 45.927626
Longitude: 7.785362
Difficulty: Basic Snow/Ice Climb
Best months for climbing: Jul, Aug, Sep
Year first climbed: 1864
First successful climber(s): Peter Taugwalder senior and Jules Jacot
Nearest major airport: Geneva/Milano/Zurich
Convenient Center: Zermatt

Thanks to Oyvind Lind Petersen and Marshall Hall for contributing to these details. (View history)

From Zermatt take the cableway to Kleine Matterhorn - 3800m. From here it takes two hours nice walking on the glacier in south-east direction before the 90 minutes climb begin. The climb is mostly 1 with some parts of 2. Snow to 50 degree. This mountain is more demanding than the nearby mountains Castor and Breithorn because some parts of the climb here are exposed.

A alternative is the Italian way from Mezzalama Hut.

Trip Reports

NOTE: Trip reports were previously called "Summit Logs" - same feature, new name

There are 13 trip reports for Pollux.

Select any entry from the list below:

  • Log #22158 - by Caj E Svensson on Apr 12, 2011
    We took a shot at it the day before and turned back at the fixed ropes. After a night's sleep in the nearby hut, Eva and I went all the way up and Anders waited below the rock entrance to the climb....
  • Log #21862 - by Koen on Jan 24, 2010
    Starting from the bivouac hut we climbed Pollux and Castor and went on to the Quintino Sella hut.
  • Log #21780 - by Christine Theodorovics on Sep 28, 2009
    Sometimes it gets quite crowded at the rocky piece before the crest. There is a bit of climbing to do, but all secured by fixed ropes.
  • Log #19949 - by Jonathan on July 15, 2006
    Excellent route, done with guide, Ric Potter from Klein Matterhorn. The glacier approach was interesting with some big crevasses and very soft on return. Wonderful views of Castor and Monte Rosa...
  • Log #11346 - by Alex T Johnson on Nov 27, 2003
    We started after a stay overnight at the bivacco Giorgio Rossi-Cesare Volante at about 9am at the SW-ridge of Pollux. Very nice summit. We were the only ones on the mountain.
  • Log #11347 - by Todd Fraker on Sep 29, 2003
    Climbed the SW Ridge in about 7 hours round-trip from the Klein Matterhorn station. A little congestion at the fixed chains, but what a great route!
  • Log #11348 - by Janos Granicz on Feb 28, 2002
    Karoly Barta - Bela Raucsik - Janos Granicz Our route: Mezzalama Hut - Guide Val d' Ayas Hut - Zwillingsjoch (Passo di Verra) - South-East Ridge - Pollux - South-West Face - Guide Val d' Ayas Hut -...
  • Log #11349 - by Marco Arata on Nov 21, 2001
    Nice climb, mixed Rock andGlacier trek.
  • Log #11350 - by Andy Macgeorge on July 18, 2001
    From the Ayes Hut up along the glacier to the South ridge of Pollux. A nice climb on easy rock and snow. Good conditions and well protected from the wind. There are three chains which bring you first...
  • Log #11351 - by Eric Schmidt on Apr 09, 2001
    My first real peak other than Mt. Washington, NH. Now, I'm hooked. Tried to go up on the 7th, but a storm was blowing through so we didn't go.
  • Log #11352 - by Kobe Bellinkx on Feb 17, 2000
    Nice climb, with some bad weather on the way down. Very popular and easy route.
  • Log #11353 - by Juergen Wein on Sep 22, 1999
    One of the twinns. the other one ist the Castor. Done both. Not difficult but nice.
  • Log #11354 - by Oyvind Lind Petersen on Sep 07, 1999
    This was my first alpin peak. Not very difficult. For me it was because I was not used to the attitude or to the exposed rocks. So I stopped the group twice.