Mount Heyburn

Mount Heyburn is located in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area about one mile west of Redfish Lake (drive to this 5 mile long lake). From Highway 93 it appears as the most prominent peak in the Sawtooth Range even though it is not the highest.

Mount Heyburn has two summits separated by a deep notch. The western summit is higher by just a few feet. Most of the mountain is composed of very decomposed granite. The Stur Chimney is one of the most popular routes on the peak and avoids most of the poor rock. Beautiful, multi-towered summit, Sawtooth granite. Some of approach near the peak is soft (ball-bearing) scree. Some of the mountain is soft and rotten. A rich climbing history inlcudes ascents by the Underhills, the Iowa Mountains, Louis Stur, Fred Becky. Stur Chimney first ascent by Louis, good sold rock.

Elevation (feet): 10,229
Elevation (meters): 3,118
Continent: North America
Country: United States
Range/Region: Idaho-Bitterroot Rockies
State: Idaho
Latitude: 44.1011
Longitude: -114.975
Difficulty: Technical Climb
Best months for climbing: Jun, Jul, Aug
Year first climbed: 1935
Nearest major airport: Boise

Thanks to Fred Spicker for adding this peak.

Trip Reports

There are 11 trip reports for Mount Heyburn.

  • Log #11533 - by James A. Creighton "Alec" on Nov 18, 20033.00 stars
    camped at upper Bench lake, chopped steps up the big couloir where it steepened, carved through cornice with ice axes and a quick pitch we were on top signed registry found out western peak slightly...
  • Log #11534 - by Fred Spicker on Nov 19, 20033.00 stars
    I do not know what has gone at Peakware - but the description of this peak is not as I entered it. Some idiot who cannot spell has added a bunch of poorly done stuff. THIS IS NOT MY ORIGINAL WORK! ...
  • Log #11535 - by Troy Maxfield on June 20, 20033.00 stars
    This was my first alpine snow climb with partners Drew Erickson and John Kitley who have now become life-long friends and climbing partners. Snow was heavy that year and three inches of fresh...
  • Log #11536 - by Brian Cabe on May 28, 20033.00 stars
    Stur Chimney. Camped at upper Bench lake on snow. Snow approach. Neat route.
  • Log #11537 - by K. Cooper on Aug 30, 20023.00 stars
    The approach was a pain - no snow, just ball bearing scree. It's a fourth-class scramble to the chimney. From there, there is some good, some bad rock. Wear helmets.
  • Log #11538 - by Kenn Lamson on July 17, 20023.00 stars
    Enjoyed easy and and interesting climbing after enduring approach through sand, scree, ball-bearing granite and boulders. Climbed in 3 pitches with Alan Queen leading short 2nd pitch and myself...
  • Log #11539 - by Sean Duffy on July 15, 20023.00 stars
    Climbed the East Summit this time via the Petzoldt Couloir on the north side. The Petzoldt was a mixed climb at this late date. The exposed but easy summit block is airy and fun. You can see the...
  • Log #11540 - by Jon Donahue on Aug 13, 20013.00 stars
    My friend, Mike Moffit, called me up and told me that are buddy, Mike Casey, was back in town and wanted to hit some climbs. So Moffit was thinking hey why not Heyburn? So in 2hrs of planning we...
  • Log #11542 - by Mike Irving on Sep 16, 20003.00 stars
    Stur Chimney Route. Good solid rock as described in the 1975 Off Belay mag. issue. Summit register was a Prince Albert tobacco can with a small sheaf of paper in it.
  • Log #11543 - by Sean Duffy on July 10, 20003.00 stars
    After a tough approach hike up ball-bearing like scree and unstable talus, the climbing began on the the northweat side of the peak. Two long pitches lead to the top. Some loose rock, but lots of...
  • Log #11544 - by Fred Spicker on Sep 16, 19993.00 stars
    Ascent via the Stur Chimney. Good rock nearly all the way. The rotten rock variously described as "soft beyond belief", "ball bearing stuff", etc. is best avoided.